Mara 2025 – “The Uprising"

A trip that was getting built for over a year. That is quite unusual for me, but unusual things happen in life. What started a thought about a year ago, way back in Feb 24, took a good amount of time to materialize as lot of things had to fall into the right place. As usual, I was quite excited, anxious and extremely happy to get on with this trip. With the help of my dear friend, Janardhan Sir, he not only took over the itinerary in entirety but ensured, I got the best of the best planning done.  The last few years, he has been my go-to person for any trip, and he never disappoints. Every time I call, the smile, the love he has for me and the pure intent to make things happen for me, I cannot explain.  Sincere thanks from the bottom of my heart to him. After months and days leading up to the date of departure, I was beaming ear to ear! Just like my previous trips to Mara, I wanted this to be the most exciting, fulfilling and the best trip, ever! I wanted to experience ‘pure’ happiness without any baggage, in one of my favourite places on earth! I hoped so!

After few cups of coffee at the lounge, I boarded Air Arabia – 29th Jan 2025 from Bangalore (with layover in Sharjah) at 330am IST. The touchdown at Nairobi was at 1:15pm. Well, I did not miss the onboard entertainment since my mind was preoccupied anyways, it was a quiet and easy flight however halfway through, air-turbulence was severe. With the new process of e-Visa, there was no need to fill in the arrival card making it a seamless between Arrival to immigration and Customs! Jambo! 1:45pm, I was outside talking to Francis about the drive to Mara! Plan was to beat the Rift Valley Traffic and have a leisurely coffee at the regular pitstop - ArtCafe. Since last time, quite a lot of items got added to the Menu Card. So, I was quite overjoyed to have Masala Chai and Coffee – Yes, together but spacing out. Not to mention, it was raining at Rift Valley and continued all through.

As we got closer to Mara, I realized we were driving on huge craters and not roads! Heavy thunderstorms and rains belted; The roads were in a dilapidated condition. Thumps, Jumps and Brakes – The last hour and a half journey was quite uneventful until we took a deviation just ahead of Sekanani Gate. It was 6pm when we got into Mara. It was drizzling and had rained heavily. By 645pm, as we waded through the muddy roads in Talek, I could see Osero Sopia Camp from far off! That night passed quietly with me listening to the rains and winds, without any star count, however hoping the next few days, I would not miss my star gazing.

30th Jan 25 - At 4am, it poured. And poured. That left me wondering how the day would unfold. Wilson, my naturalist and driver was upbeat as I got into the jeep. 530am, damp weather, it’s raining in sheets and freezing cold. With high spirits, we set out as the headlights teared into the morning darkness and heavy rains but through all familiar roads.  We knew the forecast for the next few days, and it was thunderstorms & rains, so planning for any Sun rise frames was out of question. Around 645am, rain stopped briefly but continued to drizzle.  The rain covers were folded up as we drove. And clouds were getting cleared. Wet air, that chilly feeling, air gushing onto my body, shaking me up was the most welcome feeling as long as I’d be out here. Even though some of the subjects are very common such as Tommies, Impalas, Topis or Hartebeest, Mara will not be the same without them! It is as though they are there at the doorstop for a grand welcome. That familiarity! I looked to see a Topi chasing another, perhaps a morning exercise and nearby, a curious Tommy with utmost curiosity, tails up, staring at me! One of the things that I have done which is quite silly is always wanting to push to spend time with them until the last day and when the D-day comes, I tell myself to spend more time with these antelopes! Even they have their own set of stories! And I always wait for the BB Jackal to give an audience which means, that day will be favourable! It is a good omen! I mean it! So much for superstition!

I look around and it is heaven. Despite the fact it has been raining and not being able to witness the magical sunrise, Mara is still heaven. My plan was to track Big Cats, new pride males and see if I could start following new Prides, document them. The drizzle did not help me a bit but still managed to spend time with Mbili Bora – The last 2 from Tano Bora Cheetah Coalition. They both looked fragile, hungry and weak! I think they must be pushing 9 or 10 years by this time. As they walked through the nonstop rain, soggy and wet plains, intent was to hunt. Their body was shrunk. Over the next day, they tried to hunt 4 times and all failed. They are not getting any younger. They walked and walked – One milestone at a time and moving to the next. Their intent to survive was quite high. The intensity to fight was imminent.

The Legends -Mbili Bora – Winda & Olonyok walks in the rain

I am sure deep inside the unrest they may have with all unsolved and unexplained emotions, perhaps?  Would they have any outlet?  I am unsure how they may be fighting their emotions of falling from 5 (Tano Bora) to 2 (Mbili Bora - Winda & Olonyok) and if something goes wrong with one, what will happen to the final one standing? How will Mara treat him? What goes in his mind? Will they grieve? Would they feel the loss? I was thinking even as my eyes were framing them. I was quite relieved when I saw them, next day, devouring a Topi – They both lived for another day while the Topi remains melted into the wet sands of Mara.

After 4 failed hunting attempts, they get their reward – Feasting on a Topi 

Is the unrest that was building within myself or the way I was getting such a feeling all around? Desperation for food on one side for some of the cats, the weather was at its unpredictable best and the air was filled with a feeling that was just about to explode. The survival precedes over everything, the rain washing up all the unsolved equations on the plains while I kept staring at the rain drops until it dried. I stared at every drop, the drop that shines on the blade of a grass, and I continued to stare. I felt like a jig saw puzzle with certain thoughts creeping right under my mind and nerves, fuelling so much of unrest and anger. I pivot from one to an extreme point at times – those have been right under my skin waiting to pop out. Watching the rainwater get into a gulley and gushing out into the open, wondered - certain people’s behaviour passed right in front of my eyes and mind. How I wish I never met up with such people in life, their double standards and hypocrisy. Getting hurt for being good, time and again. What do I get?  My thoughts continued. Brother...? Brother? I heard Wilson’s voice that pulled me out of my misery. Care for a coffee? Wilson called for a truce between the rain and my thoughts as I sipped coffee with its aroma overpowering the situation.

Far across a hyena came sauntering, a mild chase even as the Topi ignored the advances, went on to mind its own business, a perfect sentry role for the lesser-known subjects of the plains.  With rains lashing all through in pockets, drove towards Keekorok area – Where there is an overlap of territory with Osero pride. Chanced upon a beautiful pair of lions, finding a perfect spot to mate under the watchful eyes of the younger male, who was a spectator to the proceedings, just like many of us! This was the first time, I documented Osero Pride. The previous night, there were non-stop roaring’s and when I saw them, I realized it was from these brothers, perhaps! The sun peeped from the black clouds, and it was such a respite!  

Osero Pride – Mating Pair – He just wouldn’t let go off her 

Osero Pride – The brother who kept a watchful eye on everyone 

The rains had stopped that night. The clouds had moved on since. For the first time in few days, I was lucky to star gaze. Standing in the balcony of my camp, I could almost touch them. Millions of stars burning, flickering and shining, while every now and then, a Hippo would wander along the shores of Talek. Far across the roars of lions cutting through the stillness of the night, it was chilling as it pierced through the darkness, few hyenas yelped even as a Black Backed Jackal ran through the corner of my camp! Looking at the skies, wondering about life, wondering about Lions and thinking about myself – All the hidden angst, frustration that is dealt in normal life oozed out. Few tears made its way down even as I was admiring the nature and thinking about the cycle of life. Strange but melancholic feelings. Not everyone would understand but certain emotions are to be reserved or meant only to be shared with nature. Mother nature – It is such a surreal feeling – She is the epitome of motherhood. She hears. She feels me. She reciprocates. She is empathetic. She is not jealous nor wicked. She is selfless. She is harmless. She understands me. She talks to me.  That is the difference between her and typical humans filled with jealousy and sadistic thoughts. How lucky I am that I often rest under her shadows, under her kindness. In her deep embrace. Nature – So true. After some time with all these thoughts merging in the coldness of the night, I hit the bed, looking forward to a grand sunrise the next day.

Even as the Hot Air Balloons soared up across the skies, Mara became more magical. With Orange, Red and Blue hues sing the sun rise, these colourful balloons raced along the horizon!

The Magical Sun Rise – Even though it was not as eventful as it has to be, but still, it is Magical

Hot Air Balloons Soaring in the skies 

As we watched the sun rising up, the plan was to head out to two areas – The Lookout and The Breakaway. Off and on, we continued to check on Luluka – one of the showstoppers of Mara! She was nowhere to be seen. Every call, every radio conversation was only about where could she have gone? It was misty and very cold that morning. We searched every nook and corner, but the two lion prides were nowhere to be found. It was quite disheartening. After having stopped for breakfast, under a lone acacia tree – The “typical” bush breakfast that I have been used to all these years, still it feels like the first time, my mind was racing elsewhere. Guess to be in Serengeti. To be in middle of those eastern plains. To be driving through the roads that does not see an end. It was quite a dull morning.

I yawned few times. The golden light warmed me up, the sun lighting me up but no movements- except for the typical private investigators who are hidden in the grass but observe every little thing happening around them! I call them The Sentries of the Plains (Hartebeest and Topis) - Curious, cautious and ever so vulnerable.  They would not let go us out of their sight until they feel safe! I tried few creative frames before moving on. So, the plan was to head back to camp, relax, get our minds cleared and see how the evening would unfold.

A Hartebeest submerged in a grassland watches me all along 

An evening to remember. We were at the Rongai territory. We knew the next-gen males (Coalition of 5 Lions led by Olonkera) were sleeping in a bush. On the other side up the hill, Oloshipa and his queens along with cubs and sub-adults were feasting on a buffalo. Guess the winds got to them as I saw, one by one, the 6 Lions ushered out of the bush, smelled the air but for some reason, there was this unrest seen and felt. The cold wind was rushing through, and the sun was just about thinking to retire. Olonkera and his boys, galloped straight towards a big bush, up the hill, stopped and stared at Oloshipa who was standing just across, down the hill. I think, even he was anticipating and could smell danger from a distance. The moment Olonkera and his boys stormed into the zone of Oloshipa, the growling started. Initially the lioness came around forming a semi-circle, perhaps, as part of their defensive strategy considering there were lot of cubs, but with so much of intensity, they backed out. Funny thing was when Oloshipa growled & snarled, one of the coalition males ran away only to hide behind a bush . But for Olonkera, even though, he was in a submissive posture, he growled, snarled and suddenly took on Oloshipa. They were just few feet away from my jeep and I could sense & feel the vibrations off them.  Despite Oloshipa giving a jab to Olonkera, he was not bogged, rather he stood up and took it up head on!  But Olonkera aggressively gave back-to-back severe jabs - to all our surprise, Oloshipa ran! Olonkera chased him! They fought near & inside the bush, and I could only see Oloshipa running away! Phew! The tables had turned. It was silent except for the roar of these lions. I thought the entire Mara was echoing! This was an Uprising! Not the one within myself but one in Mara! My hands were shaking as both these guys ran right next to my Jeep, their tails touching the jeep!  The battle had been laid out, waiting for the Winner!

Olonkera and Oloshipa - Olonkera in submission mode, but only for a moment

Oloshipa letting Olonkera know who is the boss! (at that time)

The Tables turned! Olonkera - The Uprising

I think, these youngsters getting into their prime were just wanting to explode. All their growing-up years, being under the shadow of Olobor, Lorkulup, Oloimina and Oloshipa, their instincts were about to come undone. They were wanting to get outside of their comfort zone. They had a thing to prove. They were on the edge, holding on to their emotions within themselves, perhaps waiting for the right moment, right time! These were building like a volcano waiting to explode! I could feel it. I could sense it. They wanted to usurp Oloshipa. Unfortunately, while this battle was being fought, Oloimina was sleeping with his queen, miles away! If he was around, the whole plan might have taken a different turn. But that is life.

Coming back, the greed of leading the pride, the inner voice of Olonkera and his boys could have been overwhelming and unable to be on the backseat, now they chased Oloshipa down the hill. They assumed, the war was over but after few minutes, the fallen king roared from his hideout. He roared and roared. He stood defiant. He walked straight back into the battlefield. With foam flowing like water from his mouth, ears straightened and his eyes filled with rage, The King – The Buffalo Hunter – Oloshipa – ran into the battlefield.

Oloshipa – The Buffalo Hunter - Not giving up! Long Live The King!

This was nothing but suicidal, but nothing would deter him. After roaring and running towards the pride, once again, Olonkera and his boys chased him – this time down the hill on the other side! The roars faded alongside the sun melted behind the clouds, slowly but steadily! Perhaps, Rongai Pride has a new king in making of course! A new king named Olonkera! Only time will tell as we drove back to the camp with myriads of thought running. As we exited the gate, darkness wrapped all around. Staring at the skies, I wonder, there are so many thoughts, feelings, emotions and things that are deep within myself, fighting with my instincts, fighting with my body, mind and soul. It is swelling inside, it is bombarding, it is breaking up – A fight within myself. That is life. And the only difference is, I could see the Uprising in Mara while the one that is burning inside me, gets tuned from time to time. A world that is much more different than Mara

I was thinking of Oloshipa, I was thinking of Olonkera, I was thinking of myself and so many things. That night, I stood outside my camp, completely worn out. My mind wandered. My thoughts strayed. I was looking at the sky, I couldn’t see the angels, even though the stars were burning, it was dull. After a year of planning, I am here but that night I felt beaten. From time to time, why would I allow strange yet deceptive thoughts to kill my smile? kill my zeal? Why would I allow people’s sadistic & wicked thoughts to ruin my excitement? Under the starlit sky, I confess and confide to the skies. It gives me strength. It gives me peace. It gives me perspective. Yes, right here, right now - I decided to bury them for the good.  I felt good!

Far across, I heard a lion roar. My thoughts moved on to the Oloshipa. What would be going in his mind? Will he be sleeping? Or licking his wounds? Wondering how the game of life plays out. That night was quite cold. I stared at emptiness for a long time. Few steps, walking here and there outside the camp, I hit the bed with million thoughts crossing my mind.

Wilson was quite upbeat in the morning. We decided to look for some new males that I had not documented. We went farther south, adjacent to the Lookout Area and took a deviation. Far across I saw a herd of Cape Buffalos and up the hill, were the most beautiful Lions I had seen in the recent past. The Kas-Kaz Lions (I was given to understand they moved in from Serengeti). Very Reagle, extremely handsome and so very majestic! With full grown Manes, these two brothers could smell the buffalos that made them to get up from their deep slumber. They moved in stealthily to observe and calculate if they had a chance. But they did not. The numbers were stacked against them.  While I was admiring their sheer build and the attention gathered, Wilson got a call – The Cat that eluded until that time - Luluka!  Was seen with her cub! Hurrah!!!

Kas Kaz Lions - Brothers in arms! Together - Forever!

Looking at their arch rival and prey - One of the Kas Kaz brothers watches a herd of buffalo 

All I remember was we literally flying in the air to catch a glimpse of the most talked Leopard. I remember spending lot of time during my earlier visit but this time, it was tough, owing to rains and she has been moving from one hideout to another, ensuring her cub is protected. There was an ocean of admirers including yours truly. She walked and she walked – I like an excited kid, did not let go my fingers off the shutter! I just fired and fired – It was a commotion – it was chaotic. I felt the entire tourists at Mara assembled in one place to admire the queen and her prince! And boy it was worth!

Luluka with her son! Prince Charming!

Mother and Son! Show Stoppers!

There was a storm brewing down the horizon and in no time, I could see thick, black clouds covering up the sky! There were his huge and monstrous waves of black clouds swallowing up the clear blue sky. That day was ending. And my trip at Mara as well. There was another day to go but I was already feeling the vacuum in my heart and mind. By this time, I had lost track of what day it was, time, month and year! Well, that is how it usually happens.

Riders on the Storm! The Sun Sets far across even as the storm builds up

Being in Mara and not paying a visit to Mara River? That is a crime! Owing to some operational issues, what should have been an early morning drive to Mara River, eventually it became an afternoon one! And those operational hazards were unexpectedly running into Lions, Cheetahs and Elephants. And these were the road blockers! While this trip was coming to an end, my mind was already frozen in pain of having to depart.

One for the Road Block

White Bellied Bustard and a Serval!

The next morning, it was not the usual time I woke up. A leisurely morning (is such a bad thing in Mara because one is so used to get up early and by 530ish, I am on the move), watching the sunrise, sipping coffee, planning for the inbound trip, it was not so a great moment.
As I was getting ready at the Keekorok Strip, I was feeling sad wondering how it will be since I will be gone but felt relieved after thinking that there are people like me, who are landing into Mara – The baton keeps getting moved on! I am just one in the cycle! Coastal Airways was ready to take off – My name was called – I ran towards the flight and like a kid, I was in tears – waiting when would I be back here!

Nairobi was quite warm that afternoon as I landed at Wilson Airport. Traffic was a bit thin, meaning took less than 30 minutes for me to reach Jomo Kenyatta. Customary checks, immigration done and seated at the Emirates Terminal, all thoughts and visuals passed in a jiffy. It left me wondering about my next trip, how the dynamics in Mara might get changed, how soon the cubs would grow, and will I recognize them? Along with that, my own life – how will it be? When will I plan for my next trip? I boarded the Aircraft with a bittersweet memory.  As the bird soared into the sky, my mind was quite soggy. It was 8:00am as the wheels touched down at Bangalore Airport. I could literally smell Filter Coffee even as my mind was planning for the next trip……

Once again, special thanks to my dear friend Mr. Janardhan who planned this trip to the Tee. He has been such a joy to be around, to talk to and the excitement and passion we share when it comes to Mara and Photography, it is at a different level. Without his help, this trip would not have been possible.
Also special thanks to my dear friend, Mr. Goutham (Book My Lens).

Itinerary
29th February 2025 – Bangalore to Nairobi – Air Arabia
03rd February 2025 – Nairobi to Bangalore – Emirates.

My Gear
Canon EOS RF-R5 mounted on Canon EF-500mm, f4.0, IS II | Canon EOS 1DX-Mark II mounted on Canon EF 70-200mm, f.2.8 | Canon EOS EF 16-35mm, f.2.8

Camp at Mara – Osero Sophia, Talek