My Endless Dream - Serengeti 2023

Between 2020 trip and this one, it took a marathon 5 reschedules (including a quiet but intense year of covid). For one, my yearly ritual of visit got broken and between 2022 and 2023, I had to literally move around my dates so many times that I almost gave up. I feel like beating myself to death for pushing my dates for people who didn’t deserve(the ones at office/workplace). Essentially, this trip took 3 years in making and it’s a learning! A big thanks to Asanja Africa & True Africa Safaris for being patient with me.

Back in 2020, I landed in Bangalore from Kilimanjaro on March 14th and 15th onwards it was a global lockdown. It was indeed touch-and-go! Luck was on my side. Somehow, post September 21, my life events at office/workplace have been extremely “bitter”, “most forgettable” and “highly regrettable" to say the least, contributing to my extended hiatus.

Finally, 10th June 23- got etched on stone and I landed in Kilimanjaro at 4-15PM via Dar E Salam (one of the most picturesque cities of Tanzania). The customary meet and greet with my airport friends (who always help me out), and my stay at Hotel Airport Planet Lodge, which is strung outside JRO Airport - I feel like bare essentials for me to get started. It is an Amazing property, perfect for relaxation and courteous staff. I had my usual made to order vegetarian dishes that was as tasty as it could be! 

Breakfast time - 11th June 23 - Hotel Airport Lodge 

And on 11th June, 10am - Wheels-UP to Grumeti, the farthermost Western corridor of Serengeti – #asanjagrumeti the camp that hosted me was just mind-blowing. Tucked adjacent to Grumeti River and surrounded by backwaters/marsh & grumeti hills, a true-blue tented camp in middle of brimming wildlife. It is no surprise that one of the evenings, a coalition of 3 lions slept few feet away from my camp all through the night and moved on chasing wildebeest in the wee hours of morning! If you are looking for wilderness with luxury and great hospitality in the bush, look no more! Great venue, you are literally on your own while it would take an hour to spot another jeep. Amazing interiors, Jacuzzi and a bottle of wine - shower in the bush - It is the best place for you get spoilt - in literal sense! Worth all of it :) 

All set - Onboarding Coastal - JRO to Grumeti

Touchdown at Grumeti Airstrip was at 1:15pm – After meet, greet and picnic lunch with Hussain, my guide, I settled inside the jeep – unboxed my ammunition – and looked outside only to see weather moving in. In my life, a common phenomenon is rain-follows me – most of the times. Wet wind blew nonstop, and the clouds turned black in no time. It became so chilly, in matter of minutes, I was shivering while rain belted from all sides. Scurrying around, I got my cameras covered but ensured my head was popped out from a corner of the jeep watching and feeling the nonseasonal downpour. The Johnny’s of the plains – giraffes – sauntered slowly, in disdain, one after another – crossed just in front of us, it was all of 12. The smell of Serengeti, the smell of the black mud, the smell of wet winds, the gushing adrenaline, it is all but so familiar to me – It made me so comfortable and at home! A distinctive happiness, feeling of completeness, that moment when I feel completely at peace, rush of constant excitement in my body and mind – very different to the otherwise constant frown I see on my face - the excited eyebrows with my ear-to-ear smile – this is my time. I feel closer to God. I feel closer to my life, I feel closer to something very abstract, a feeling I have experienced zillion times but have been not successful to name it.

The Johnnies of the Plains - And it was about to rain

Surreal – it’s a feeling that can’t be explained – Migration of GNU’s a.k.a. Wildebeest had begun. As I set out to the plains in the morning, towards the bush, I could sense the rush. Clouds of dust, the uniform sound of hooves thumping on the ground, the moaning of Lakhs and lakhs of wildebeest in unison almost made me go deaf! My entire vision was filled with them stretching from extreme left to dead-end of right – all through – obscuring the sky – The beginning of Migration – They had just crossed Grumeti River and getting ready to march towards northern Serengeti! On the other side, flesh-trade was happening – Vultures – Maribu Storks, Hyenas – fighting over leftovers while some of them were sitting on pile of dead GNU’s wondering what to do with so much of food! The Sundowner Lion Pride had an itch of killing that morning – Few lions were feeding on Wildebeest Carcass despite their bellies over-flowing and touching the ground – they hunted couple of more – lost interest – left them and moved on! The excitement with which the migration started – with every ounce of breath and life – in unison – these heroes of Serengeti and Mara – moved in thick. Wondering what must be running in their minds? How would they find their way to north? What goes in their mind? While I was having myriad of thoughts, my guide had our jeep parked right in the middle – surrounded by thousands of lakhs of gnu’s! I looked around and went numb! We were literally under siege! Dusty air, deafening sounds of their snorts and they are marching with all the confusion – It was an experience!

 A bird's eye view of the Migration (from Western Corridor of Serengeti) 

Aerial View of the Migration

The golden rays of the sun came screaming all through the bushes and trees! We moved along the path adjacent to the hill. Darkness was seemingly heavy as dawn tried to sneak through with its morning hues. What a scene! It was between 645 and 7am. This pride of lions were feasting on a wildebeest. The sun was right behind them - trying his best to spread fast. We positioned right in front of them. While the pride took to rest, this young lioness still left hungry, started to relish its breakfast. Both the predator and prey were backlit! An amazing time for me to get some dream shots! 

Predator and Prey - In the limelight! 

The Undertakers - A moment of Silence before the feast

This was the first time, I was in “Western” corridor of Serengeti! It has an extremely healthy population of Giraffe’s, Colobus Monkeys, Oribi Antelope besides the usual suspects. It’s a typical woodland combined with riverine scattered in pockets, rolling hills that spread across until the backwaters and off-course grasslands. It has a distinctive difference to Central, Eastern and Southern topography of Serengeti. You will be welcomed by swarm of Tete Flies here (especially when you drive through the hills and woodland areas) until you move into the open area. There are 4 “known” Lion Prides – One towards Sundowner Hill (Pride of 30+ Lions with 3 Pride Males), another pride of 16 next to Singita corridor, with 3 Male Lions, Hill Pride – I could see a mating pair with a second male and the last one was closer to &beyond Camp – a small pride – Pride Male, Lioness and 3 Cubs (Guess a stand-alone Pride); While these were the ones I was able to check-out, to my pleasant surprise, there was this evening, when a coalition of 3 Males walked into our camp – What an experience to see all three of them resting “few” feet away from my tent! They ensured to stay up until morning (in-turn ensured I didn’t sleep that night). Bush in Grumeti is completely surprising – I felt so good to have opted to be in this zone this year. It is an un-sung part of Serengeti. All through the 5 nights I stayed, Elephants invaded the marsh most of the nights for dinner! Gripping feeling as one of them came right next to my tent – The silence of the night was broken with this gentle giant as he walked towards my tent, with his occasional rumbles, ripping one of the tree branches - I could see his shadow (huge tusker) from inside my tent, while I lay still on my bed with hundred thoughts coming into my head. To be honest, my heart almost popped out of my mouth. I did not want to move thinking the shrieking sound my bed would make or my steps if I were to get down - that would trigger him! What a situation that was! Those 15 to 20 minutes turned to be like few hours for sure!

The Hill Pride Male gives a perfect frame for the evening 

I got up to a chilly morning. And quite an dull one too! As we ploughed towards the sun-downer hill, all i could see was carcasses of Wildebeest that may have died of natural causes or killed by Lions or Hyenas. The clouds were moving in and i was telling Hussain that it may as well make Lions take an extended nap. 10 minutes or so, later, I was quite sure, it would be a morning without Cats. Few meters on, I saw something moving up the golden grass - excitedly and silently "screamed" - Hussain - Lion! and as we stopped to take a closer look, his partner's head popped out! A courting pair! A dull morning that was, became quite an exciting one!

While they courted in their own zone, apparently, she was not happy with something - so she ensured the male is made aware of! I do got a feeling that the male was very apprehensive while the lioness was confident and bold. We spent an hour with them while they rested in deep and thick grasses. As the clouds opened up, we decided to move on, while even the courting pair walked right in front of my jeep, towards Singita territory - I waited to see if they would climb on a mound but to my disappointment, they quietly got into a gorge and moved on from there.

Serengeti's moving Skyscrapers! 

Perfect Send-off from Grumeti  

Surprise Visitor at my tent - One of the 3 Coalition Males (Night Photography)

After spending 5 nights at Grumeti, one of the most fascinating ones, I bade goodbye to my dear friend, Barrick –manager at Asanja Camps(he had come all the way from Moru Camps to welcome me), as Hussain drove towards Seronera! It was an unexplainable feeling – Leaving this previous piece of treasure that too with a heavy heart. The previous day, Barrick had organised a Bush Lunch that was out of the world! One can be rest assured to add few layers of skin and fat, with all the love and care from the staff out here!

We left Grumeti at 630am and skidded towards the main corridor road. Heavy cubicles of cake, sweets, and munches on my lap, I was back on the road. After 5 long days, leopard still eluded me. No sign of rosettes. Looking around I wrapped myself with few layers of clothes – It was freezing. Rain continued to accompany me. June is supposed to be the gateway to summer, which was not the case this time. Green – Dark Green – Parrot Green – it was Green and Green all around! And boy I loved it. Heavy to light drizzle, black clouds, Watching the birds, raptors (Tawny, Martial, Bateleurs) and antelopes, in their elements was nothing but pure joy! In-between Hyenas popped in and out while a stray bull elephant looked at us curiously. After 2 hours or so, Hussain turned on the radio – By that time I could sense we were getting into Central Serengeti. The tell-tale signs of the topography, the known landmarks greeted me! As we went past the Rongai hill and took a deviation that would lead us to Hippo Pool and Seronera Airstrip, the traffic took over! I must tell you that all these years of visiting Central Serengeti, it is nothing less than Bangalore Downtown! Or the typical traffic we get to see! And predictable too! In Grumeti, it would take at least an hour to find any other jeep or humans but here, in seconds!

Within minutes, I could see 15 to 18 Jeeps stranded and bingo – That must be a Leopard! And it was! Phew! Hussain, an amazing guide, a great human being, and a fantastic person to be with! He helped me big time to get the kind of frames I wanted! As my first leg of trip came to an end, it wouldn’t have been possible without his skills.

Finally - Leopard! 

Namiri and Beyond – Eastern Circuit - It was 1030am and as planned, I was at Seronera Air-Strip Parking lot – Breakfast time and for me to shake hands with Hussain who “handed” me to James 😊 ; So far in this trip, I covered, Western and Central and from here, James would transport me to another gold-mine i.e., Eastern Serengeti! Over to @trueafrica Safaris and @entara Lodges and Eagle Eyed - @james Nasary! After years and years of visiting Serengeti, I can tell you – James is one of the best, if not THE Best guide I have ever been before! Bundle of knowledge, down to earth personality, extremely methodical, terrific sense of humour and has eye of an eagle! What a personality! He is an avid mountaineer and is a mountain climbing trainer! (Viz., – Mount Meru); As we were moving away from Central, he stopped the jeep, spread out the Serengeti Map – took his time to explain me the entire region letting me know the overall demography of the eastern plains and its whereabouts. While I had been to eastern Serengeti previously, however it was more of flying visits, but this was the first time, I would be there for a week! We had lunch as we talked about Bob and Marley (Sons of Legendary C-Boy), how they were killed by the Don and his army (of 7 Lions) – I was getting edgy to be in Namiri. During my last visit, I had seen Bob and Marley and from the time I worked on this trip, I was looking forward to seeing them but …

If one need to experience a typical and true wilderness stay, then Entara in Eastern Serengeti is a must! What a place! It is nestled right in middle of the plains, unfenced. Elephants, Lion Roars, Hyenas are just not far from you. They are right next to you! Delicious food, mouth-watering cakes, hot coffee pots, bon-fires – This is the place!

The Don / Split Nose - Ring Leader of Namiri (The Alpha of 7 Males)

Endless plains and sprinkles of Kopjes. Namiri gives you a feeling of hope, being lost in middle of a maze, feeling of being born again, emotions, it makes you feel anxious and hollow! The twist and turns of the plains may make you feel lost. It takes you to the edge of the plains(that’s what you think) and suddenly leading into another universe of open lands that has no end! This is the place I want to live forever and die too - to be born again! The evening sun had cast its light on the tall grasses, making it glow like a gold. The pale green and golden grasses run forever until it cuts through the horizon. Continue to stare through, you feel as though, there is no end to these plains. And yes, there is no end to these plains. Twists and turns in the middle and you will find a way in and out however if you are not careful, I am sure, it will put you on a continuous loop of circles. Namiri takes you beyond. In between miles, few mounds that looks like a lion (it is just an illusion until it happens in reality), you plough further, just an occasional acacia stuck out – The vastness embraces me. Its landscape hugs me deep. It takes me to eternity – the golden rays of the sun bent on tall grasses even as you look around – far enough, Gol Kopje is seen, and farther, Ngorongoro Mountains spread out – I turn to south; evening dust gets kicked off by these Elands that are running for their life but for no reason. Topis and Hartebeest make themselves comfortable by looking at me with no threat perceived. It is 545pm as the sun seemingly being swallowed by one the of Kopjes, it sinks right into it signalling the end of day . Watching the sky dance to multitude of hues, riot of colours screaming out, in matter of minutes, what once was a blue sky turned to Orange-Red-Purple and Yellow brushes of clouds. The shadows grew strong, hungrier than before as James headed back to one of the most beautiful camps – Entara!

And the rains did follow me, after all. Early morning rains made me shudder. I thought, I turned to ice! James looks at me and started to laugh. I was dressed & packed - to be in Alaska! With heavy storms hovering, visibility was very poor. With our eyes peeled – looking around – a lone Hyena took to hunt! It chased a Tommy and to my disbelief – it was a very long (and very long) chase – The Hyena just would not give up. Both Predator and Prey were far off from us, but I was looking through my 500mm – A small pick in the vast plains. After 4 to 5 minutes, tommy gave up. This was the first time; I saw a Hyena hunting! That too in the rain!

A beautiful sunrise, Namiri Plains

Golden Cheetah - Up Close and Personnel! 

Eastern Serengeti offers arguably the best sightings. The Best. That too if you are with a naturalist and a person like James, it becomes worthwhile! This is haven for Cheetah and Lions. While Cheetahs are thriving in Eastern Plains, Lions are spread out through the vastness of these plains. And they are massive! The magic of being here is you are left for yourself – I rarely got to see a jeep except for the ones whose camps were in and around. The rains had taken a break as the morning sun warmed me up. I was at Research Kopjes and Gol Kopjes were not far either. This is the zone of the Don and his army of 6 Male Lions – 7Pride. Don a.k.a. Split Nose was the chief architect of usurping erstwhile Namiri rulers – Bob and Marley. While I saw all 7 lions, but not together. He looks mean, he looks unfazed, he means business. What a character! The time I was there, he was in a courtship. I think he had won the hearts of the Pride (of females) – All 3 days, I saw him busy, planning to expand his family and genes.

The whole week of my stay – it was Lions and Lions and of course Lions. James forcibly cut short my Lion trip before setting up few dates with Cheetahs. One of the mornings, after having a date with a Cheetah,  James was silent and he just drove through the plains. We went up by quite a distance – I was curious and tried to make him speak. I wanted to understand what was going in his mind. After half an hour, we stopped at a rocky terrain. He took out his binocs – scanning across into the rocks puzzling me – He then used his pen-light and ask me to focus! A family of Ferraux Eagle Owl! To tell you – you can walk past this small terrain hundred times from dawn to dusk without getting to know their Presence. So perfectly camouflaged. 3 Young ones and the mother was on the backside. And then James smiled! That was the best way to give a surprise! 

Eagle Owl looks on!

I have always been a sucker for Lions on Kopjes. There are hundreds of images I have seen and with every image, call it passion or desperation or determination of framing a male lion (predetermined posture/style) has been on my mind. I have few but it does not meet my own criteria. I got few but that does not satisfy me. During my earlier trips, when I had few chances, I screwed it up. This time, I was quite hopeful of getting what I wanted – I “almost” got it, but then either the Lions had a different thought or weather conditions went with their own course – or luck didn’t smile at me. Having said that, I am getting better. I am still hopeful that next year, I will nail this. Spending time with these majestic pride of lions at Gol Kopjes was much satisfying and gratifying to my heart and soul. Huge prides (of 30) with large nurseries (cubs), males coming out to soak up the evening sun, or a view of me observing these cats in their core habitat gave me goosebumps.

The GolKopje Pride Male - Looks at me

A Lion Cub sticks its head in between Eland's horns 

The Silent Observer! 

The dying evening light at Gol Kopjes made us to retreat albeit reluctantly. James fired up the engine and we decided to move when all of a sudden these four lioness came out of a Kopje and goodness, the creche gates opened up. To our joy, 14 cabs ran out of their mother's care towards the track. One of the cubs moved carefully adjacent to our jeep, jumped into the rocks, parked himself on a boulder and all he did was stared at us! That was one of the most beautiful moments from this trip. Look at him? What do you feel? I am sure one day, he would become the undisputed king of Namiri Plains! God Speed! 

 A break from feeding frenzy 

Couple of Servals popping in and out, a Caracal (that had hunted a Tommy), Barn Owl, Ferraux Eagle Owl, Pangani Long Clove Bird, Kori Bustard walking with her baby – were some of the other surprises that got featured in my diary

Dawn to dusk, being in middle of Namiri Plains, being in the heart of Eastern Serengeti, it makes me vulnerable! Reason being, it makes me go weak. After a sumptuous lunch, our routine was to drive towards the Kopjes, park ourselves under a thick acacia tree – pull up the blankets and just have a good afternoon siesta! The smell of the air, the heavy but wet breeze coming from Ngorongoro side, babblers flying all around, Agama Lizards up on the rocks while I lay asleep in the Jeep – How I always wanted to be consumed by Serengeti. How I always wanted to be swallowed by Serengeti. It was about 330pm – typical Coffee / Teatime – Sipping hot coffee, chatting with James about what lay ahead – those 10 days of my stay flew like a second. It just whizzed past. The adventures, the drive, silence of Namiri, the golden endless roads of Eastern Serengeti, the rain, wet weather, beautiful Sunrises and Sunsets filled with deep colours, this is my dream, this is my endless dream. A dream that I continuously dare to, a dream that is always within, it grows, and I starve. It lengthens and I yearn. It keeps calling and I can’t wait to get back, once again. I wonder what is that affinity, that bond, that strange tie up that I dream, daydream, and continue to dream – every single day and night? The satisfaction it gives, the tear drop I shed because of the happiness, weather, heavy rains when I am there, or the Lions or the people I meet there – it is my world out there. It is my life out there. It has been few weeks since I am back home, but I am still dreaming. Serengeti – it is deep inside me. It is calling me – I am running in the plains, looking around, tall elephant grasses, every turn, every curve opening to another ocean of plains, the bends, slopes of Serengeti, The golden hues on the grass, the greens further up on the plains, the loops that I fear, the path that sucks me in, but I don’t fear of losing myself there, I run, I run faster, I close my eyes, I feel it.

Mother and Daughter - Scanning the plains, What's next?

Zebras, quench their thirsts, with loads of caution! 

Special thanks to True Africa Safaris (Troy), Asanja Africa, Airport Planet Lodge in JRO, Entara Camps and The Eagle Eye – James Nasary – Brother, to tell you that you are the best is an under-statement. Without your help, this trip would have been nothing. Your knowledge, deep understanding of the landscape, subjects, and their behaviours – it is simply outstanding! Thanks once again and I am looking forward for our outing in 2024! True Africa Safaris - Superb Customer service and experience. The welcome cards in my tent, sweet gestures of bush dinner and the hospitality - more than anything, for bearing with me for back to back reschedules, timely messages on my Whatsapp - Overall truly True Africa! Big shout out to Troy for everything you did! World Class!

Many thanks once again Africa Safaris and Entara! Asanja - My second home in Africa - when I am in Africa, if i am not at Asanja, then its not done! 

The Kings of Nanyuki Pride 

So Long, the mighty king of Gol Kopje! Until next time

10th June 2023 – Bangalore to JRO – Qatar Airways

21st June 2023 – JRO to Bangalore – Kenya Airways enroute Mumbai(via Vistara)

If you are planning to stay in Kilimanjaro, suggest-  Airport Planet Lodge – Beautiful property, amazing and courteous Staff.

Thanks to Goutham, #Bookmylens – for helping me out on the Rentals. This time, Canon 16-35mm was the most used one!