Wildmeadows

Back to life..

2025-10-18T03:45:00+00:00

Back to Life

Lost in thought and lost in time | While the seeds of life and the seeds of change were planted | Outside, the rain fell dark and slow | While I pondered on this dangerous but irresistible pastime | I took a heavenly ride through our silence | I knew the moment had arrived | For killing the past and coming back to life…..

Even as I was humming Pink Floyd, non-stop, I looked outside watching the orange cat eyes lit up the entire runway, it was like a beacon, an illuminated path through which I’d flew into the sky, a starlit sky, a silent night, melting into dark dense clouds with constant chatter of thoughts and as I settled, the plane gushed into a mysterious cloud tunnel, holding me in its arms. I closed my eyes….

18 Oct 25. It was a hot afternoon. Very hot indeed. As I stepped out of the plane, the warm wind hit me like a fire ball. I could not open my eyes to the skies, and my body was on fire. I literally ran across the tarmac towards the Kilimanjaro immigration counter. What a relief! In a jiffy, all the formalities were done, and I was on my way to Arusha – I Stayed overnight at “The Outpost” and next morning, 19 Oct 2026, plan was to fly into Seronera (Serengeti) via Coastal Airways. The Outpost was alright, I loved the ambience, the pathway and property. It was tucked in midst of a plantation. I was so overjoyed to host my friend, James Nasary out there. He was my guide during my earlier trip and we stayed in touch. Evening coffee with him was extra special. James knows Serengeti like the back of his hand. I had amazing time and memories during my earlier trip with him. He has eagle's eyes, amazing birder, great spotting and such a fantastic human being! I hope he will join me during my next trip!

19 Oct 2026. Thanks to Outpost staff, they packed breakfast for me to have at Arusha airport. A steaming cup of Arusha Coffee and I jumped into the flight at 7am. A typical journey of a bumpy ride, I landed at Seronera Airstrip at 845am.

Saied, my guide was waiting to welcome me while Regan, an intern at Olmara, was quite intrigued and kept watching the proceedings considering this was his first outing. We hit it off well, rolled on, driving into north-east, beating the traffic at central. Yes, there is traffic at Central Serengeti, and it is of a different kind. People who frequent Serengeti will understand.

An area I am so familiar with. The place I am so close to. the turns, the roads, the crossroads and the open skies, I call them mine. Certain trees that I know far too well. The moment I pass, I recall sightings on that tree, be a Leopard or an eagle or some nest that I would have seen. They smile at me, year after year, standing like a lighthouse, guarding the bushes, there is that feeling, I know them, I know this tree, I know this land, I know this trail, and that brings in a great deal of satisfaction. A great deal of familiarity, pride and selfishness. This was my first time to East Serengeti during peak of dry season, and it was unrecognisable. I wondered if this is the same place I have been going to for years now. Dark brown and yellow grass that was on the verge of getting uprooted by the wind, most of the dry patches were on fire (controlled fire by rangers) even as thick black smoke lay stagnated, like a monument, while Tawnies, Jackals and Secretary Birds used this as an opportunity to feast on rodents and other insects. Life ends for few while it gives life for few. How ironic!

I was terribly and visibly disappointed watching the forest fire towards the far eastern side of the plains (even though it was a controlled one), black smoke, dusty and a dead feeling. Even before I landed, from the flight I watched miles of black patch that had made me extremely uneasy and now on the ground, watching the dry lands turned me pale. What happened to the green plains that I saw earlier? Is this the same place I have been visiting for years? For miles together I could only see black and dead brown grass, sea of sands whistling away by the whooshing wind, where have I landed? A bit ahead, next to a thorny bush, to my dismay, I saw a Lion Cub sleeping on the side of the road, perhaps a year old, in such a feeble state, it was up to its ribs! Such a weakened one, it did not have strength even to look up! It was matter of hours before he took his final breath. Few yards up, a pride of lions gone so weak, their bones were almost protruding. With migration long gone and the predators left with Antelopes and Warthogs, it’s a tough life out there. Sun was beating everyone to death and parched earth crying out for rain, I just hoped these cats get something to eat else they would be gone! It is a hard life. This is true life out in the bushes and plains.

Even as the black smoke was hurling up into the sky, one could see dark clouds firming up. I assumed we would get the first of the many rains shortly. Interestingly, when I drove for a few hours towards south, the planes were green and orange! It had rained and the cats were looking healthy and in great shape! The cubs were playing around; lioness were seen sharp and of course, males were busy either in sleeping or checking on their territory! So many contrasts in life. Well, we say we know everything about nature! So untrue

A year back, I had but almost given up on my return to Serengeti. Things were extremely wicked and unfavorable. A constant lump of pain and terrible feeling of being in isolation rattled me every single day and night. Every single day I googled, looked up on airlines, looked at random dates, eyeballed every single frame and video of my previous visits – and I cried deep, inside, unconsolable. It was such a damp feeling, as though I had parted ways with something, a cold and hollow feeling creeping all through my head and body. Every day I got up only to feel dejected but consoled to an extent where I told myself – things will happen. It will happen. Life is going to be good! It is going to be alright! I just got to wait for the favorable winds… the winds of change. And finally, the wind blew, the wheel of life moved, clouds cleared a bit, I could see the light at the end of tunnel. It was a ray of hope, it had a wave of anticipation, I was breathing, it beckoned life, my life. I came back to life.

Arguably, one of the best camps in Eastern side is Olmara and of course another one is Asilia. Olmara nestled away in woodlands, tucked deep yet so close to the main stage. There are 2 Lion Prides – viz., Olmara Pride and Marsh Pride that overlaps each other’s territory. Interestingly one of the Olmara Lioness frequented our camp’s kitchen during night times, during my stay. I saw her walking carefully looking around while I froze and stay-put not wanting to startle her or make a noise with my camera.

Measuring the vastness of the plains until I could stretch my eyes to the maximum, it is nothing but heaven. Watching the sun rise with vibrant colors, the nip in the air, the freshness of early morning breeze, the dampness in the morning hues, it is a different feeling. Watching the subjects of this never ending meadows, with renewed energy after surviving yet another harrowing night with no clue of what would come upon them, they stare at me and run away to their troops. Tommys and Impalas stand on guard while far across the distance a giraffe looks on! And I drive through, with the intent of making most of my life! A morning out here gives me a thousand lives. It’s a lifeline.

One of the key highlights was at Gol Kopjes – Well, just as the Kopjes were in sight, suddenly, Saied slammed brakes, and he took a sharp turn to the right. I was left to wonder what prompted him. I bent forward to asking him to which he was silent as he was scanning from his eagle eyes! At one point, he almost jumped off his seat with a soft scream – Caracal! An exciting moment! Even as we went near the Caracal, I admired his natural ability to spot subjects – It was incredible. Out of nowhere, he literally created a sighting. What a spotting! While I congratulated him for his eagle eyes and spotting, little did we realize we were in for a NatGeo Moment! This Caracal walked before spotting something and zoomed! It was in hunt-mode! The hare ran for its life even as the caracal sprinted to its limits, but in the end, it gave up while the hare lived for yet another day. It was 7-00am and my hands were shaking for the cold and for what I saw.

Two years ago, the Gol Kopje Pride had around 18 Cubs however I got to hear, only 6 to 8 survived. When we watch these animals, it gives the impression that everything is alright, but it is not. Brutal summer, lack of prey after migration and excruciating dry season did not give them a chance. Right after witnessing the Caracal’s hunt, we rushed towards the Kopje and followed the pug marks – As we were moving from one Kopje to another, the toy train was spotted. 20 Cubs, 6 Females and 4 adolescent – A HUGE PRIDE of Lions were coming right into us! What a moment! What a moment! At times you wonder what to do – Take a video or Photographs or just watch them? The next hour and a half were the best time I had in life. Watching the cubs play, run-around, pull one another, gaping at me while I photographed – Oh God! There was this one cub, a curious one that used to walk up to the Jeep, staring at me and running back to its mother. It did few times, got bored before getting back to its nursery. As the morning sun opened, the matriarch got up to get into the cave in the Kopjes, looked back with a sound and all furballs ran behind while others lazily made their way back.

The dry lands, dusty air, brown grasses talk about their own struggle. For impalas and tommie’s, nibbling on juiceless grass gave no satisfaction as they moved on to the other side hoping the grass would be greener. Interesting thing to watch out was for miles, I felt being in a desert, in a dusty bowl and after few minutes of driving up to the horizon only to see a wide spectrum of brimming vegetation. Nature and its surprises. Serengeti is by no means a small patch. It is seriously huge, wide and endless. Gol Kopjes, Research Kopjes, Sametu Kopjes, Zebra Kopjes, Masai Kopjes and many more – All through my stay, I relentlessly tried tracking lions in these Kopjes. I was successful in few but came back empty most of the time. Luck plays a very important role. One needs to be there at the right time and on the right day!

One evening, I spent time with a Cheetah family and got a tip that there was Masai Kopje Lion Pride nearby. It was an extremely dry, dusty but hot day. As we drove towards the southern side, like magic, the weather crept in. 10 minutes into the drive, I could feel the wet wind, black clouds jamming up from nowhere and it happened so quickly and in no time, I stretched out my hands to feel the rain drops! My guide ensured I was insulated in a raincoat much before little drops became monstrous and it was free fall rain! It rained and rained! I thoroughly enjoyed the moments. Things change so much in the savannah. Like our lives. How we used to be and how we are now. Our adolescent times, carefree times, all frolic and fun, loads of laughs to now, life filled with uncertainty, filled with despair, occasional drops of laughter but living the life in anguish, resentment, unpredictability and worries – how life has come through? It takes much to smile, it takes much to be free of pain and worries, chaos and commotion have taken over our lives.

It was one of the morning drives. The previous evening’s game drive was quite dry except for a dramatic moment I was caught in. As we were heading back to the camp with not much of a game, I was watching the sun melt into the horizon when we saw this Lioness. It was such a beautiful sight, begging to be framed! With the sun setting and this lioness looking at me straight, a dream come true moment.

A beautiful morning but I was lost in thoughts. Me and my fluctuating mood. It was extremely cold as we set out. We drove and drove – I felt as though we were going towards the end of Serengeti, but we were going in circles, in a long loop. Saied stopped to check for pug marks and other leads but there was nothing substantial. I lazily looked around, feeling dejected (for no reason), I was suddenly angry, I was feeling restless, waiting to pounce on someone like a cat. On top of it, there was no news on lions that further added to my misery. Even when Saied and Regan were chatting with me, I was in no mood to even reply. I was extremely agitated. At around 11am, I asked them to drive me back to the camp.

I rolled on my bed; I sat on the verandah watching the planes from my comfort even as babblers and few birds were busy with their routine. A pair of dik-dik that ran past my camp, and few impalas came close by did not make me any good. At around 230pm, I got ready and walked towards the camp lounge. With a sunken and sulking face, I sat facing the bush sipping coffee. Few minutes later, I could smell the rain! And did it rain? The next couple of hours, lightning, thunderstorms and sheets of rain took over the MainStage. It poured. Heavens opened up like how! Every now and then, the sound of lightning gave goosebumps. Sipping hot coffee, watching the extravagant magic of nature is such a heavenly feeling.

I wanted to be out, the relief rain gave me, I wanted me to be right in middle of the bush. I wanted to get drenched, stretch my hands out, feel the drops, hear the tires sloshing through the water, wanted to smell the rain, watch the dark skies. But Saied did not come out of his tent, and I nudged the manager to talk to him. I was desperate. At 5ish, as the intensity of rain came down, Saied walked in and I burst out on him. He said he was not aware of my plan and hoped I’d have let him know. My disappointment and sunken face made him realize I was not happy at all. We parted ways while I continued to watch the rain, swearing at everything. I was completely off. I was disappointed, I was angry, I was furious.

That night, I recalled all the memorable moments I spent the earlier week. While I ensured I web-check in my flights, my mind was running all over the bushes. The night when Elephants visited my camp, it was nothing but a chilling moment. The time I spent with Leopard Mom and her 2 cubs, few hunts that went missing by the Cheetahs, a natural geographic moment of a Caracal hunting a hare, Tons of Lions, Servals and many more! With all this running across my eyes, I did not realize when I fell asleep.

26th October 25.

It was my departure day from Serengeti. My bags were packed and kept ready in the main tent. I was sipping coffee when Saied came to me saying he wanted to speak. To the point, he said, he was very disappointed with the way the trip came to an end. He was talking about the previous evening’s talks and the way I expressed my disappointment. He said, I could have just walked up to his tent asking him if we could go on a drive, but I did not etc. My head was bursting out. I did not want to debate; all I wanted was to scream and shout. I did not want my trip to end on his bitter note. We were on the wheels to Seronora Airstrip. The next 3 hours, not a word was spoken, no soul stirred. It was complete silence. It was extremely awkward. As we reached Central Serengeti, we saw a leopard descending a tree and I took few shots. Even then, it was just an animated discussion, unsaid and unspoken.

At the Seronera Air Strip, even as Saied dropped my luggage at the Coastal counter, I shook hands with him and Regan. I spoke to Saied, thanked him for an amazing trip. I thanked him from the bottom of my heart and I smiled. His eyes were wet. He held my hands tight, wrapping them with his. He looked right into my eyes and smiled. Perhaps he thought, I would just walk away without a word being said, and we hugged, we truly hugged. Both of us were relieved and happy. I told him that my trip is now complete. I waved at him even as Coastal took its lift from the dry and dusty airstrip of Seronera. I continued to wave at him…. Some things that happen remain a mystery.. like me... quite mysterious me :)

It was 730am on 27th October 25, my eyes opened after hearing the captain’s announcement of the flight’s descent into Bangalore… I was telling myself that I should not waste any more time but start planning for my next trip to The Serengeti!

I was singing to myself as I looked at the landing zone, my thoughts were still hooked to the Lions and Leopards, to the rain and the plains … as the plane came to a grinding halt, I started humming … I took a heavenly ride through our silence | I knew the moment had arrived | For killing the past and coming back to life…. Back to Life

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Once again, special thanks to True Africa Safaris, #trueafrica who planned this trip to the Tee. My planning happens through the year with many changes and Agatha was so very patient with me, my sincere thanks for all the help and arrangements. I have been a recall client for #TrueAfrica and I can only say, how amazing it has been! Agatha was in touch with me all through and I must say, I did not have to worry about anything at all, except, fly out and spend the heavenly time out there in the bushes. Agatha, Kim and Troy - Big 5 and High-5 to all of you :)

Special thanks to my dear friend, Mr. Goutham (#BookMyLens) for the wide angle.

Itinerary 

19th October 2025 – Bangalore to Kilimanjaro Via Doha – Qatar Airways (Stayed overnight at #arusha, The OutPost)

26th October 2025 – Kilimanjaro to Bangalore Via Addis-Ababa – Ethiopian Airlines

My Gear 

#Canon EOS RF-R5 mounted on Canon EF-500mm, f4.0, IS II | Canon EOS RF-R5 mounted on Canon EF 70-200mm, f.2.8 | Canon EOS EF 16-35mm, f.2.8 ISII

Camp at #Serengeti – #Olmara at Namiri Plains.

Visit me at www.wildmeadows.in

Mara 2025 – “The Uprising"

2025-03-01T16:09:48+00:00

A trip that was getting built for over a year. That is quite unusual for me, but unusual things happen in life. What started a thought about a year ago, way back in Feb 24, took a good amount of time to materialize as lot of things had to fall into the right place. As usual, I was quite excited, anxious and extremely happy to get on with this trip. With the help of my dear friend, Janardhan Sir, he not only took over the itinerary in entirety but ensured, I got the best of the best planning done. The last few years, he has been my go-to person for any trip, and he never disappoints. Every time I call, the smile, the love he has for me and the pure intent to make things happen for me, I cannot explain. Sincere thanks from the bottom of my heart to him. After months and days leading up to the date of departure, I was beaming ear to ear! Just like my previous trips to Mara, I wanted this to be the most exciting, fulfilling and the best trip, ever! I wanted to experience ‘pure’ happiness without any baggage, in one of my favourite places on earth! I hoped so!

After few cups of coffee at the lounge, I boarded Air Arabia – 29th Jan 2025 from Bangalore (with layover in Sharjah) at 330am IST. The touchdown at Nairobi was at 1:15pm. Well, I did not miss the onboard entertainment since my mind was preoccupied anyways, it was a quiet and easy flight however halfway through, air-turbulence was severe. With the new process of e-Visa, there was no need to fill in the arrival card making it a seamless between Arrival to immigration and Customs! Jambo! 1:45pm, I was outside talking to Francis about the drive to Mara! Plan was to beat the Rift Valley Traffic and have a leisurely coffee at the regular pitstop - ArtCafe. Since last time, quite a lot of items got added to the Menu Card. So, I was quite overjoyed to have Masala Chai and Coffee – Yes, together but spacing out. Not to mention, it was raining at Rift Valley and continued all through.

As we got closer to Mara, I realized we were driving on huge craters and not roads! Heavy thunderstorms and rains belted; The roads were in a dilapidated condition. Thumps, Jumps and Brakes – The last hour and a half journey was quite uneventful until we took a deviation just ahead of Sekanani Gate. It was 6pm when we got into Mara. It was drizzling and had rained heavily. By 645pm, as we waded through the muddy roads in Talek, I could see Osero Sopia Camp from far off! That night passed quietly with me listening to the rains and winds, without any star count, however hoping the next few days, I would not miss my star gazing.

30th Jan 25 - At 4am, it poured. And poured. That left me wondering how the day would unfold. Wilson, my naturalist and driver was upbeat as I got into the jeep. 530am, damp weather, it’s raining in sheets and freezing cold. With high spirits, we set out as the headlights teared into the morning darkness and heavy rains but through all familiar roads. We knew the forecast for the next few days, and it was thunderstorms & rains, so planning for any Sun rise frames was out of question. Around 645am, rain stopped briefly but continued to drizzle. The rain covers were folded up as we drove. And clouds were getting cleared. Wet air, that chilly feeling, air gushing onto my body, shaking me up was the most welcome feeling as long as I’d be out here. Even though some of the subjects are very common such as Tommies, Impalas, Topis or Hartebeest, Mara will not be the same without them! It is as though they are there at the doorstop for a grand welcome. That familiarity! I looked to see a Topi chasing another, perhaps a morning exercise and nearby, a curious Tommy with utmost curiosity, tails up, staring at me! One of the things that I have done which is quite silly is always wanting to push to spend time with them until the last day and when the D-day comes, I tell myself to spend more time with these antelopes! Even they have their own set of stories! And I always wait for the BB Jackal to give an audience which means, that day will be favourable! It is a good omen! I mean it! So much for superstition!

I look around and it is heaven. Despite the fact it has been raining and not being able to witness the magical sunrise, Mara is still heaven. My plan was to track Big Cats, new pride males and see if I could start following new Prides, document them. The drizzle did not help me a bit but still managed to spend time with Mbili Bora – The last 2 from Tano Bora Cheetah Coalition. They both looked fragile, hungry and weak! I think they must be pushing 9 or 10 years by this time. As they walked through the nonstop rain, soggy and wet plains, intent was to hunt. Their body was shrunk. Over the next day, they tried to hunt 4 times and all failed. They are not getting any younger. They walked and walked – One milestone at a time and moving to the next. Their intent to survive was quite high. The intensity to fight was imminent.

The Legends -Mbili Bora – Winda & Olonyok walks in the rain

I am sure deep inside the unrest they may have with all unsolved and unexplained emotions, perhaps? Would they have any outlet? I am unsure how they may be fighting their emotions of falling from 5 (Tano Bora) to 2 (Mbili Bora - Winda & Olonyok) and if something goes wrong with one, what will happen to the final one standing? How will Mara treat him? What goes in his mind? Will they grieve? Would they feel the loss? I was thinking even as my eyes were framing them. I was quite relieved when I saw them, next day, devouring a Topi – They both lived for another day while the Topi remains melted into the wet sands of Mara.

After 4 failed hunting attempts, they get their reward – Feasting on a Topi

Is the unrest that was building within myself or the way I was getting such a feeling all around? Desperation for food on one side for some of the cats, the weather was at its unpredictable best and the air was filled with a feeling that was just about to explode. The survival precedes over everything, the rain washing up all the unsolved equations on the plains while I kept staring at the rain drops until it dried. I stared at every drop, the drop that shines on the blade of a grass, and I continued to stare. I felt like a jig saw puzzle with certain thoughts creeping right under my mind and nerves, fuelling so much of unrest and anger. I pivot from one to an extreme point at times – those have been right under my skin waiting to pop out. Watching the rainwater get into a gulley and gushing out into the open, wondered - certain people’s behaviour passed right in front of my eyes and mind. How I wish I never met up with such people in life, their double standards and hypocrisy. Getting hurt for being good, time and again. What do I get? My thoughts continued. Brother...? Brother? I heard Wilson’s voice that pulled me out of my misery. Care for a coffee? Wilson called for a truce between the rain and my thoughts as I sipped coffee with its aroma overpowering the situation.

Far across a hyena came sauntering, a mild chase even as the Topi ignored the advances, went on to mind its own business, a perfect sentry role for the lesser-known subjects of the plains. With rains lashing all through in pockets, drove towards Keekorok area – Where there is an overlap of territory with Osero pride. Chanced upon a beautiful pair of lions, finding a perfect spot to mate under the watchful eyes of the younger male, who was a spectator to the proceedings, just like many of us! This was the first time, I documented Osero Pride. The previous night, there were non-stop roaring’s and when I saw them, I realized it was from these brothers, perhaps! The sun peeped from the black clouds, and it was such a respite!

Osero Pride – Mating Pair – He just wouldn’t let go off her

Osero Pride – The brother who kept a watchful eye on everyone

The rains had stopped that night. The clouds had moved on since. For the first time in few days, I was lucky to star gaze. Standing in the balcony of my camp, I could almost touch them. Millions of stars burning, flickering and shining, while every now and then, a Hippo would wander along the shores of Talek. Far across the roars of lions cutting through the stillness of the night, it was chilling as it pierced through the darkness, few hyenas yelped even as a Black Backed Jackal ran through the corner of my camp! Looking at the skies, wondering about life, wondering about Lions and thinking about myself – All the hidden angst, frustration that is dealt in normal life oozed out. Few tears made its way down even as I was admiring the nature and thinking about the cycle of life. Strange but melancholic feelings. Not everyone would understand but certain emotions are to be reserved or meant only to be shared with nature. Mother nature – It is such a surreal feeling – She is the epitome of motherhood. She hears. She feels me. She reciprocates. She is empathetic. She is not jealous nor wicked. She is selfless. She is harmless. She understands me. She talks to me. That is the difference between her and typical humans filled with jealousy and sadistic thoughts. How lucky I am that I often rest under her shadows, under her kindness. In her deep embrace. Nature – So true. After some time with all these thoughts merging in the coldness of the night, I hit the bed, looking forward to a grand sunrise the next day.

Even as the Hot Air Balloons soared up across the skies, Mara became more magical. With Orange, Red and Blue hues sing the sun rise, these colourful balloons raced along the horizon!

The Magical Sun Rise – Even though it was not as eventful as it has to be, but still, it is Magical

Hot Air Balloons Soaring in the skies

As we watched the sun rising up, the plan was to head out to two areas – The Lookout and The Breakaway. Off and on, we continued to check on Luluka – one of the showstoppers of Mara! She was nowhere to be seen. Every call, every radio conversation was only about where could she have gone? It was misty and very cold that morning. We searched every nook and corner, but the two lion prides were nowhere to be found. It was quite disheartening. After having stopped for breakfast, under a lone acacia tree – The “typical” bush breakfast that I have been used to all these years, still it feels like the first time, my mind was racing elsewhere. Guess to be in Serengeti. To be in middle of those eastern plains. To be driving through the roads that does not see an end. It was quite a dull morning.

I yawned few times. The golden light warmed me up, the sun lighting me up but no movements- except for the typical private investigators who are hidden in the grass but observe every little thing happening around them! I call them The Sentries of the Plains (Hartebeest and Topis) - Curious, cautious and ever so vulnerable. They would not let go us out of their sight until they feel safe! I tried few creative frames before moving on. So, the plan was to head back to camp, relax, get our minds cleared and see how the evening would unfold.

A Hartebeest submerged in a grassland watches me all along

An evening to remember. We were at the Rongai territory. We knew the next-gen males (Coalition of 5 Lions led by Olonkera) were sleeping in a bush. On the other side up the hill, Oloshipa and his queens along with cubs and sub-adults were feasting on a buffalo. Guess the winds got to them as I saw, one by one, the 6 Lions ushered out of the bush, smelled the air but for some reason, there was this unrest seen and felt. The cold wind was rushing through, and the sun was just about thinking to retire. Olonkera and his boys, galloped straight towards a big bush, up the hill, stopped and stared at Oloshipa who was standing just across, down the hill. I think, even he was anticipating and could smell danger from a distance. The moment Olonkera and his boys stormed into the zone of Oloshipa, the growling started. Initially the lioness came around forming a semi-circle, perhaps, as part of their defensive strategy considering there were lot of cubs, but with so much of intensity, they backed out. Funny thing was when Oloshipa growled & snarled, one of the coalition males ran away only to hide behind a bush . But for Olonkera, even though, he was in a submissive posture, he growled, snarled and suddenly took on Oloshipa. They were just few feet away from my jeep and I could sense & feel the vibrations off them. Despite Oloshipa giving a jab to Olonkera, he was not bogged, rather he stood up and took it up head on! But Olonkera aggressively gave back-to-back severe jabs - to all our surprise, Oloshipa ran! Olonkera chased him! They fought near & inside the bush, and I could only see Oloshipa running away! Phew! The tables had turned. It was silent except for the roar of these lions. I thought the entire Mara was echoing! This was an Uprising! Not the one within myself but one in Mara! My hands were shaking as both these guys ran right next to my Jeep, their tails touching the jeep! The battle had been laid out, waiting for the Winner!

Olonkera and Oloshipa - Olonkera in submission mode, but only for a moment

Oloshipa letting Olonkera know who is the boss! (at that time)

The Tables turned! Olonkera - The Uprising

I think, these youngsters getting into their prime were just wanting to explode. All their growing-up years, being under the shadow of Olobor, Lorkulup, Oloimina and Oloshipa, their instincts were about to come undone. They were wanting to get outside of their comfort zone. They had a thing to prove. They were on the edge, holding on to their emotions within themselves, perhaps waiting for the right moment, right time! These were building like a volcano waiting to explode! I could feel it. I could sense it. They wanted to usurp Oloshipa. Unfortunately, while this battle was being fought, Oloimina was sleeping with his queen, miles away! If he was around, the whole plan might have taken a different turn. But that is life.

Coming back, the greed of leading the pride, the inner voice of Olonkera and his boys could have been overwhelming and unable to be on the backseat, now they chased Oloshipa down the hill. They assumed, the war was over but after few minutes, the fallen king roared from his hideout. He roared and roared. He stood defiant. He walked straight back into the battlefield. With foam flowing like water from his mouth, ears straightened and his eyes filled with rage, The King – The Buffalo Hunter – Oloshipa – ran into the battlefield.

Oloshipa – The Buffalo Hunter - Not giving up! Long Live The King!

This was nothing but suicidal, but nothing would deter him. After roaring and running towards the pride, once again, Olonkera and his boys chased him – this time down the hill on the other side! The roars faded alongside the sun melted behind the clouds, slowly but steadily! Perhaps, Rongai Pride has a new king in making of course! A new king named Olonkera! Only time will tell as we drove back to the camp with myriads of thought running. As we exited the gate, darkness wrapped all around. Staring at the skies, I wonder, there are so many thoughts, feelings, emotions and things that are deep within myself, fighting with my instincts, fighting with my body, mind and soul. It is swelling inside, it is bombarding, it is breaking up – A fight within myself. That is life. And the only difference is, I could see the Uprising in Mara while the one that is burning inside me, gets tuned from time to time. A world that is much more different than Mara

I was thinking of Oloshipa, I was thinking of Olonkera, I was thinking of myself and so many things. That night, I stood outside my camp, completely worn out. My mind wandered. My thoughts strayed. I was looking at the sky, I couldn’t see the angels, even though the stars were burning, it was dull. After a year of planning, I am here but that night I felt beaten. From time to time, why would I allow strange yet deceptive thoughts to kill my smile? kill my zeal? Why would I allow people’s sadistic & wicked thoughts to ruin my excitement? Under the starlit sky, I confess and confide to the skies. It gives me strength. It gives me peace. It gives me perspective. Yes, right here, right now - I decided to bury them for the good. I felt good!

Far across, I heard a lion roar. My thoughts moved on to the Oloshipa. What would be going in his mind? Will he be sleeping? Or licking his wounds? Wondering how the game of life plays out. That night was quite cold. I stared at emptiness for a long time. Few steps, walking here and there outside the camp, I hit the bed with million thoughts crossing my mind.

Wilson was quite upbeat in the morning. We decided to look for some new males that I had not documented. We went farther south, adjacent to the Lookout Area and took a deviation. Far across I saw a herd of Cape Buffalos and up the hill, were the most beautiful Lions I had seen in the recent past. The Kas-Kaz Lions (I was given to understand they moved in from Serengeti). Very Reagle, extremely handsome and so very majestic! With full grown Manes, these two brothers could smell the buffalos that made them to get up from their deep slumber. They moved in stealthily to observe and calculate if they had a chance. But they did not. The numbers were stacked against them. While I was admiring their sheer build and the attention gathered, Wilson got a call – The Cat that eluded until that time - Luluka! Was seen with her cub! Hurrah!!!

Kas Kaz Lions - Brothers in arms! Together - Forever!

Looking at their arch rival and prey - One of the Kas Kaz brothers watches a herd of buffalo

All I remember was we literally flying in the air to catch a glimpse of the most talked Leopard. I remember spending lot of time during my earlier visit but this time, it was tough, owing to rains and she has been moving from one hideout to another, ensuring her cub is protected. There was an ocean of admirers including yours truly. She walked and she walked – I like an excited kid, did not let go my fingers off the shutter! I just fired and fired – It was a commotion – it was chaotic. I felt the entire tourists at Mara assembled in one place to admire the queen and her prince! And boy it was worth!

Luluka with her son! Prince Charming!

Mother and Son! Show Stoppers!

There was a storm brewing down the horizon and in no time, I could see thick, black clouds covering up the sky! There were his huge and monstrous waves of black clouds swallowing up the clear blue sky. That day was ending. And my trip at Mara as well. There was another day to go but I was already feeling the vacuum in my heart and mind. By this time, I had lost track of what day it was, time, month and year! Well, that is how it usually happens.

Riders on the Storm! The Sun Sets far across even as the storm builds up

Being in Mara and not paying a visit to Mara River? That is a crime! Owing to some operational issues, what should have been an early morning drive to Mara River, eventually it became an afternoon one! And those operational hazards were unexpectedly running into Lions, Cheetahs and Elephants. And these were the road blockers! While this trip was coming to an end, my mind was already frozen in pain of having to depart.

One for the Road Block

White Bellied Bustard and a Serval!

The next morning, it was not the usual time I woke up. A leisurely morning (is such a bad thing in Mara because one is so used to get up early and by 530ish, I am on the move), watching the sunrise, sipping coffee, planning for the inbound trip, it was not so a great moment.
As I was getting ready at the Keekorok Strip, I was feeling sad wondering how it will be since I will be gone but felt relieved after thinking that there are people like me, who are landing into Mara – The baton keeps getting moved on! I am just one in the cycle! Coastal Airways was ready to take off – My name was called – I ran towards the flight and like a kid, I was in tears – waiting when would I be back here!

Nairobi was quite warm that afternoon as I landed at Wilson Airport. Traffic was a bit thin, meaning took less than 30 minutes for me to reach Jomo Kenyatta. Customary checks, immigration done and seated at the Emirates Terminal, all thoughts and visuals passed in a jiffy. It left me wondering about my next trip, how the dynamics in Mara might get changed, how soon the cubs would grow, and will I recognize them? Along with that, my own life – how will it be? When will I plan for my next trip? I boarded the Aircraft with a bittersweet memory. As the bird soared into the sky, my mind was quite soggy. It was 8:00am as the wheels touched down at Bangalore Airport. I could literally smell Filter Coffee even as my mind was planning for the next trip……

Once again, special thanks to my dear friend Mr. Janardhan who planned this trip to the Tee. He has been such a joy to be around, to talk to and the excitement and passion we share when it comes to Mara and Photography, it is at a different level. Without his help, this trip would not have been possible.
Also special thanks to my dear friend, Mr. Goutham (Book My Lens).

Itinerary
29th February 2025 – Bangalore to Nairobi – Air Arabia
03rd February 2025 – Nairobi to Bangalore – Emirates.

My Gear
Canon EOS RF-R5 mounted on Canon EF-500mm, f4.0, IS II | Canon EOS 1DX-Mark II mounted on Canon EF 70-200mm, f.2.8 | Canon EOS EF 16-35mm, f.2.8

Camp at Mara – Osero Sophia, Talek

My Endless Dream - Serengeti 2023

2023-06-10T09:48:55+00:00

Between 2020 trip and this one, it took a marathon 5 reschedules (including a quiet but intense year of covid). For one, my yearly ritual of visit got broken and between 2022 and 2023, I had to literally move around my dates so many times that I almost gave up. I feel like beating myself to death for pushing my dates for people who didn’t deserve(the ones at office/workplace). Essentially, this trip took 3 years in making and it’s a learning! A big thanks to Asanja Africa & True Africa Safaris for being patient with me.

Back in 2020, I landed in Bangalore from Kilimanjaro on March 14th and 15th onwards it was a global lockdown. It was indeed touch-and-go! Luck was on my side. Somehow, post September 21, my life events at office/workplace have been extremely “bitter”, “most forgettable” and “highly regrettable" to say the least, contributing to my extended hiatus.

Finally, 10th June 23- got etched on stone and I landed in Kilimanjaro at 4-15PM via Dar E Salam (one of the most picturesque cities of Tanzania). The customary meet and greet with my airport friends (who always help me out), and my stay at Hotel Airport Planet Lodge, which is strung outside JRO Airport - I feel like bare essentials for me to get started. It is an Amazing property, perfect for relaxation and courteous staff. I had my usual made to order vegetarian dishes that was as tasty as it could be!

Breakfast time - 11th June 23 - Hotel Airport Lodge

And on 11th June, 10am - Wheels-UP to Grumeti, the farthermost Western corridor of Serengeti – #asanjagrumeti the camp that hosted me was just mind-blowing. Tucked adjacent to Grumeti River and surrounded by backwaters/marsh & grumeti hills, a true-blue tented camp in middle of brimming wildlife. It is no surprise that one of the evenings, a coalition of 3 lions slept few feet away from my camp all through the night and moved on chasing wildebeest in the wee hours of morning! If you are looking for wilderness with luxury and great hospitality in the bush, look no more! Great venue, you are literally on your own while it would take an hour to spot another jeep. Amazing interiors, Jacuzzi and a bottle of wine - shower in the bush - It is the best place for you get spoilt - in literal sense! Worth all of it :)

All set - Onboarding Coastal - JRO to Grumeti

Touchdown at Grumeti Airstrip was at 1:15pm – After meet, greet and picnic lunch with Hussain, my guide, I settled inside the jeep – unboxed my ammunition – and looked outside only to see weather moving in. In my life, a common phenomenon is rain-follows me – most of the times. Wet wind blew nonstop, and the clouds turned black in no time. It became so chilly, in matter of minutes, I was shivering while rain belted from all sides. Scurrying around, I got my cameras covered but ensured my head was popped out from a corner of the jeep watching and feeling the nonseasonal downpour. The Johnny’s of the plains – giraffes – sauntered slowly, in disdain, one after another – crossed just in front of us, it was all of 12. The smell of Serengeti, the smell of the black mud, the smell of wet winds, the gushing adrenaline, it is all but so familiar to me – It made me so comfortable and at home! A distinctive happiness, feeling of completeness, that moment when I feel completely at peace, rush of constant excitement in my body and mind – very different to the otherwise constant frown I see on my face - the excited eyebrows with my ear-to-ear smile – this is my time. I feel closer to God. I feel closer to my life, I feel closer to something very abstract, a feeling I have experienced zillion times but have been not successful to name it.

The Johnnies of the Plains - And it was about to rain

Surreal – it’s a feeling that can’t be explained – Migration of GNU’s a.k.a. Wildebeest had begun. As I set out to the plains in the morning, towards the bush, I could sense the rush. Clouds of dust, the uniform sound of hooves thumping on the ground, the moaning of Lakhs and lakhs of wildebeest in unison almost made me go deaf! My entire vision was filled with them stretching from extreme left to dead-end of right – all through – obscuring the sky – The beginning of Migration – They had just crossed Grumeti River and getting ready to march towards northern Serengeti! On the other side, flesh-trade was happening – Vultures – Maribu Storks, Hyenas – fighting over leftovers while some of them were sitting on pile of dead GNU’s wondering what to do with so much of food! The Sundowner Lion Pride had an itch of killing that morning – Few lions were feeding on Wildebeest Carcass despite their bellies over-flowing and touching the ground – they hunted couple of more – lost interest – left them and moved on! The excitement with which the migration started – with every ounce of breath and life – in unison – these heroes of Serengeti and Mara – moved in thick. Wondering what must be running in their minds? How would they find their way to north? What goes in their mind? While I was having myriad of thoughts, my guide had our jeep parked right in the middle – surrounded by thousands of lakhs of gnu’s! I looked around and went numb! We were literally under siege! Dusty air, deafening sounds of their snorts and they are marching with all the confusion – It was an experience!

A bird's eye view of the Migration (from Western Corridor of Serengeti)

Aerial View of the Migration

The golden rays of the sun came screaming all through the bushes and trees! We moved along the path adjacent to the hill. Darkness was seemingly heavy as dawn tried to sneak through with its morning hues. What a scene! It was between 645 and 7am. This pride of lions were feasting on a wildebeest. The sun was right behind them - trying his best to spread fast. We positioned right in front of them. While the pride took to rest, this young lioness still left hungry, started to relish its breakfast. Both the predator and prey were backlit! An amazing time for me to get some dream shots!

Predator and Prey - In the limelight!

The Undertakers - A moment of Silence before the feast

This was the first time, I was in “Western” corridor of Serengeti! It has an extremely healthy population of Giraffe’s, Colobus Monkeys, Oribi Antelope besides the usual suspects. It’s a typical woodland combined with riverine scattered in pockets, rolling hills that spread across until the backwaters and off-course grasslands. It has a distinctive difference to Central, Eastern and Southern topography of Serengeti. You will be welcomed by swarm of Tete Flies here (especially when you drive through the hills and woodland areas) until you move into the open area. There are 4 “known” Lion Prides – One towards Sundowner Hill (Pride of 30+ Lions with 3 Pride Males), another pride of 16 next to Singita corridor, with 3 Male Lions, Hill Pride – I could see a mating pair with a second male and the last one was closer to &beyond Camp – a small pride – Pride Male, Lioness and 3 Cubs (Guess a stand-alone Pride); While these were the ones I was able to check-out, to my pleasant surprise, there was this evening, when a coalition of 3 Males walked into our camp – What an experience to see all three of them resting “few” feet away from my tent! They ensured to stay up until morning (in-turn ensured I didn’t sleep that night). Bush in Grumeti is completely surprising – I felt so good to have opted to be in this zone this year. It is an un-sung part of Serengeti. All through the 5 nights I stayed, Elephants invaded the marsh most of the nights for dinner! Gripping feeling as one of them came right next to my tent – The silence of the night was broken with this gentle giant as he walked towards my tent, with his occasional rumbles, ripping one of the tree branches - I could see his shadow (huge tusker) from inside my tent, while I lay still on my bed with hundred thoughts coming into my head. To be honest, my heart almost popped out of my mouth. I did not want to move thinking the shrieking sound my bed would make or my steps if I were to get down - that would trigger him! What a situation that was! Those 15 to 20 minutes turned to be like few hours for sure!

The Hill Pride Male gives a perfect frame for the evening

I got up to a chilly morning. And quite an dull one too! As we ploughed towards the sun-downer hill, all i could see was carcasses of Wildebeest that may have died of natural causes or killed by Lions or Hyenas. The clouds were moving in and i was telling Hussain that it may as well make Lions take an extended nap. 10 minutes or so, later, I was quite sure, it would be a morning without Cats. Few meters on, I saw something moving up the golden grass - excitedly and silently "screamed" - Hussain - Lion! and as we stopped to take a closer look, his partner's head popped out! A courting pair! A dull morning that was, became quite an exciting one!

While they courted in their own zone, apparently, she was not happy with something - so she ensured the male is made aware of! I do got a feeling that the male was very apprehensive while the lioness was confident and bold. We spent an hour with them while they rested in deep and thick grasses. As the clouds opened up, we decided to move on, while even the courting pair walked right in front of my jeep, towards Singita territory - I waited to see if they would climb on a mound but to my disappointment, they quietly got into a gorge and moved on from there.

Serengeti's moving Skyscrapers!

Perfect Send-off from Grumeti

Surprise Visitor at my tent - One of the 3 Coalition Males (Night Photography)

After spending 5 nights at Grumeti, one of the most fascinating ones, I bade goodbye to my dear friend, Barrick –manager at Asanja Camps(he had come all the way from Moru Camps to welcome me), as Hussain drove towards Seronera! It was an unexplainable feeling – Leaving this previous piece of treasure that too with a heavy heart. The previous day, Barrick had organised a Bush Lunch that was out of the world! One can be rest assured to add few layers of skin and fat, with all the love and care from the staff out here!

We left Grumeti at 630am and skidded towards the main corridor road. Heavy cubicles of cake, sweets, and munches on my lap, I was back on the road. After 5 long days, leopard still eluded me. No sign of rosettes. Looking around I wrapped myself with few layers of clothes – It was freezing. Rain continued to accompany me. June is supposed to be the gateway to summer, which was not the case this time. Green – Dark Green – Parrot Green – it was Green and Green all around! And boy I loved it. Heavy to light drizzle, black clouds, Watching the birds, raptors (Tawny, Martial, Bateleurs) and antelopes, in their elements was nothing but pure joy! In-between Hyenas popped in and out while a stray bull elephant looked at us curiously. After 2 hours or so, Hussain turned on the radio – By that time I could sense we were getting into Central Serengeti. The tell-tale signs of the topography, the known landmarks greeted me! As we went past the Rongai hill and took a deviation that would lead us to Hippo Pool and Seronera Airstrip, the traffic took over! I must tell you that all these years of visiting Central Serengeti, it is nothing less than Bangalore Downtown! Or the typical traffic we get to see! And predictable too! In Grumeti, it would take at least an hour to find any other jeep or humans but here, in seconds!

Within minutes, I could see 15 to 18 Jeeps stranded and bingo – That must be a Leopard! And it was! Phew! Hussain, an amazing guide, a great human being, and a fantastic person to be with! He helped me big time to get the kind of frames I wanted! As my first leg of trip came to an end, it wouldn’t have been possible without his skills.

Finally - Leopard!

Namiri and Beyond – Eastern Circuit - It was 1030am and as planned, I was at Seronera Air-Strip Parking lot – Breakfast time and for me to shake hands with Hussain who “handed” me to James 😊 ; So far in this trip, I covered, Western and Central and from here, James would transport me to another gold-mine i.e., Eastern Serengeti! Over to @trueafrica Safaris and @entara Lodges and Eagle Eyed - @james Nasary! After years and years of visiting Serengeti, I can tell you – James is one of the best, if not THE Best guide I have ever been before! Bundle of knowledge, down to earth personality, extremely methodical, terrific sense of humour and has eye of an eagle! What a personality! He is an avid mountaineer and is a mountain climbing trainer! (Viz., – Mount Meru); As we were moving away from Central, he stopped the jeep, spread out the Serengeti Map – took his time to explain me the entire region letting me know the overall demography of the eastern plains and its whereabouts. While I had been to eastern Serengeti previously, however it was more of flying visits, but this was the first time, I would be there for a week! We had lunch as we talked about Bob and Marley (Sons of Legendary C-Boy), how they were killed by the Don and his army (of 7 Lions) – I was getting edgy to be in Namiri. During my last visit, I had seen Bob and Marley and from the time I worked on this trip, I was looking forward to seeing them but …

If one need to experience a typical and true wilderness stay, then Entara in Eastern Serengeti is a must! What a place! It is nestled right in middle of the plains, unfenced. Elephants, Lion Roars, Hyenas are just not far from you. They are right next to you! Delicious food, mouth-watering cakes, hot coffee pots, bon-fires – This is the place!

The Don / Split Nose - Ring Leader of Namiri (The Alpha of 7 Males)

Endless plains and sprinkles of Kopjes. Namiri gives you a feeling of hope, being lost in middle of a maze, feeling of being born again, emotions, it makes you feel anxious and hollow! The twist and turns of the plains may make you feel lost. It takes you to the edge of the plains(that’s what you think) and suddenly leading into another universe of open lands that has no end! This is the place I want to live forever and die too - to be born again! The evening sun had cast its light on the tall grasses, making it glow like a gold. The pale green and golden grasses run forever until it cuts through the horizon. Continue to stare through, you feel as though, there is no end to these plains. And yes, there is no end to these plains. Twists and turns in the middle and you will find a way in and out however if you are not careful, I am sure, it will put you on a continuous loop of circles. Namiri takes you beyond. In between miles, few mounds that looks like a lion (it is just an illusion until it happens in reality), you plough further, just an occasional acacia stuck out – The vastness embraces me. Its landscape hugs me deep. It takes me to eternity – the golden rays of the sun bent on tall grasses even as you look around – far enough, Gol Kopje is seen, and farther, Ngorongoro Mountains spread out – I turn to south; evening dust gets kicked off by these Elands that are running for their life but for no reason. Topis and Hartebeest make themselves comfortable by looking at me with no threat perceived. It is 545pm as the sun seemingly being swallowed by one the of Kopjes, it sinks right into it signalling the end of day . Watching the sky dance to multitude of hues, riot of colours screaming out, in matter of minutes, what once was a blue sky turned to Orange-Red-Purple and Yellow brushes of clouds. The shadows grew strong, hungrier than before as James headed back to one of the most beautiful camps – Entara!

And the rains did follow me, after all. Early morning rains made me shudder. I thought, I turned to ice! James looks at me and started to laugh. I was dressed & packed - to be in Alaska! With heavy storms hovering, visibility was very poor. With our eyes peeled – looking around – a lone Hyena took to hunt! It chased a Tommy and to my disbelief – it was a very long (and very long) chase – The Hyena just would not give up. Both Predator and Prey were far off from us, but I was looking through my 500mm – A small pick in the vast plains. After 4 to 5 minutes, tommy gave up. This was the first time; I saw a Hyena hunting! That too in the rain!

A beautiful sunrise, Namiri Plains

Golden Cheetah - Up Close and Personnel!

Eastern Serengeti offers arguably the best sightings. The Best. That too if you are with a naturalist and a person like James, it becomes worthwhile! This is haven for Cheetah and Lions. While Cheetahs are thriving in Eastern Plains, Lions are spread out through the vastness of these plains. And they are massive! The magic of being here is you are left for yourself – I rarely got to see a jeep except for the ones whose camps were in and around. The rains had taken a break as the morning sun warmed me up. I was at Research Kopjes and Gol Kopjes were not far either. This is the zone of the Don and his army of 6 Male Lions – 7Pride. Don a.k.a. Split Nose was the chief architect of usurping erstwhile Namiri rulers – Bob and Marley. While I saw all 7 lions, but not together. He looks mean, he looks unfazed, he means business. What a character! The time I was there, he was in a courtship. I think he had won the hearts of the Pride (of females) – All 3 days, I saw him busy, planning to expand his family and genes.

The whole week of my stay – it was Lions and Lions and of course Lions. James forcibly cut short my Lion trip before setting up few dates with Cheetahs. One of the mornings, after having a date with a Cheetah, James was silent and he just drove through the plains. We went up by quite a distance – I was curious and tried to make him speak. I wanted to understand what was going in his mind. After half an hour, we stopped at a rocky terrain. He took out his binocs – scanning across into the rocks puzzling me – He then used his pen-light and ask me to focus! A family of Ferraux Eagle Owl! To tell you – you can walk past this small terrain hundred times from dawn to dusk without getting to know their Presence. So perfectly camouflaged. 3 Young ones and the mother was on the backside. And then James smiled! That was the best way to give a surprise!

Eagle Owl looks on!

I have always been a sucker for Lions on Kopjes. There are hundreds of images I have seen and with every image, call it passion or desperation or determination of framing a male lion (predetermined posture/style) has been on my mind. I have few but it does not meet my own criteria. I got few but that does not satisfy me. During my earlier trips, when I had few chances, I screwed it up. This time, I was quite hopeful of getting what I wanted – I “almost” got it, but then either the Lions had a different thought or weather conditions went with their own course – or luck didn’t smile at me. Having said that, I am getting better. I am still hopeful that next year, I will nail this. Spending time with these majestic pride of lions at Gol Kopjes was much satisfying and gratifying to my heart and soul. Huge prides (of 30) with large nurseries (cubs), males coming out to soak up the evening sun, or a view of me observing these cats in their core habitat gave me goosebumps.

The GolKopje Pride Male - Looks at me

A Lion Cub sticks its head in between Eland's horns

The Silent Observer!

The dying evening light at Gol Kopjes made us to retreat albeit reluctantly. James fired up the engine and we decided to move when all of a sudden these four lioness came out of a Kopje and goodness, the creche gates opened up. To our joy, 14 cabs ran out of their mother's care towards the track. One of the cubs moved carefully adjacent to our jeep, jumped into the rocks, parked himself on a boulder and all he did was stared at us! That was one of the most beautiful moments from this trip. Look at him? What do you feel? I am sure one day, he would become the undisputed king of Namiri Plains! God Speed!

A break from feeding frenzy

Couple of Servals popping in and out, a Caracal (that had hunted a Tommy), Barn Owl, Ferraux Eagle Owl, Pangani Long Clove Bird, Kori Bustard walking with her baby – were some of the other surprises that got featured in my diary

Dawn to dusk, being in middle of Namiri Plains, being in the heart of Eastern Serengeti, it makes me vulnerable! Reason being, it makes me go weak. After a sumptuous lunch, our routine was to drive towards the Kopjes, park ourselves under a thick acacia tree – pull up the blankets and just have a good afternoon siesta! The smell of the air, the heavy but wet breeze coming from Ngorongoro side, babblers flying all around, Agama Lizards up on the rocks while I lay asleep in the Jeep – How I always wanted to be consumed by Serengeti. How I always wanted to be swallowed by Serengeti. It was about 330pm – typical Coffee / Teatime – Sipping hot coffee, chatting with James about what lay ahead – those 10 days of my stay flew like a second. It just whizzed past. The adventures, the drive, silence of Namiri, the golden endless roads of Eastern Serengeti, the rain, wet weather, beautiful Sunrises and Sunsets filled with deep colours, this is my dream, this is my endless dream. A dream that I continuously dare to, a dream that is always within, it grows, and I starve. It lengthens and I yearn. It keeps calling and I can’t wait to get back, once again. I wonder what is that affinity, that bond, that strange tie up that I dream, daydream, and continue to dream – every single day and night? The satisfaction it gives, the tear drop I shed because of the happiness, weather, heavy rains when I am there, or the Lions or the people I meet there – it is my world out there. It is my life out there. It has been few weeks since I am back home, but I am still dreaming. Serengeti – it is deep inside me. It is calling me – I am running in the plains, looking around, tall elephant grasses, every turn, every curve opening to another ocean of plains, the bends, slopes of Serengeti, The golden hues on the grass, the greens further up on the plains, the loops that I fear, the path that sucks me in, but I don’t fear of losing myself there, I run, I run faster, I close my eyes, I feel it.

Mother and Daughter - Scanning the plains, What's next?

Zebras, quench their thirsts, with loads of caution!

Special thanks to True Africa Safaris (Troy), Asanja Africa, Airport Planet Lodge in JRO, Entara Camps and The Eagle Eye – James Nasary – Brother, to tell you that you are the best is an under-statement. Without your help, this trip would have been nothing. Your knowledge, deep understanding of the landscape, subjects, and their behaviours – it is simply outstanding! Thanks once again and I am looking forward for our outing in 2024! True Africa Safaris - Superb Customer service and experience. The welcome cards in my tent, sweet gestures of bush dinner and the hospitality - more than anything, for bearing with me for back to back reschedules, timely messages on my Whatsapp - Overall truly True Africa! Big shout out to Troy for everything you did! World Class!

Many thanks once again Africa Safaris and Entara! Asanja - My second home in Africa - when I am in Africa, if i am not at Asanja, then its not done!

The Kings of Nanyuki Pride

So Long, the mighty king of Gol Kopje! Until next time

10th June 2023 – Bangalore to JRO – Qatar Airways

21st June 2023 – JRO to Bangalore – Kenya Airways enroute Mumbai(via Vistara)

If you are planning to stay in Kilimanjaro, suggest- Airport Planet Lodge – Beautiful property, amazing and courteous Staff.

Thanks to Goutham, #Bookmylens – for helping me out on the Rentals. This time, Canon 16-35mm was the most used one!

Mara Migration 2022 Edition - A Journey that never ends!

2022-09-04T14:14:40+00:00

Approximately every 30 minutes or so, a plane lands on an airstrip (example: Mara Intrepid) Watching the flights fly that close across the plains, I love seeing the new enthusiastic arrivals hopping out of the planes to take over the action from those who were getting into a plane to get back home.

The enthusiasm, excitement and craving to experience, feel and be part of the Mara Legends over-powers the sad and “if I could stay for few more days” / “what would happen to the action I left behind” feeling that is just un-explainable. I get this feeling right from the day one each time I saw a plane land. I am typically thinking about the hard-time I would battle with my emotions when I will be on my way back. Like a kid reluctantly going to school, misty eyed, emotions choking up his throat - this is what I go through every time I pack my bags from Mara and watch the plane land on the muddy strip, to take me back home. The only thing missing was a handkerchief tied to my shirt. Guess, I always need a towel.

For the first time, I had a nightmarish experience at Bangalore International Airport. Because of a sandstorm in Sharjah, my Bangalore flight was delayed by 3 hours. Upon that, I didn’t realize my camera tools were kept in my carry bag (I had taken collars off my lens) only to have the security confiscate it. Without which I couldn’t leave Bangalore - Thanks to #airarabia staff who graciously helped me all through to get things sorted. Phew! Finally, departed Bangalore by 630am and no surprises, my entire day/events were in shambles. I almost missed my Nairobi flight! Nonetheless - All went well with touch and go affair. Only after I landed in Nairobi, I told myself - My trip is on!

I stayed in two camps - Mara Simba and Osero Sophia River Camp. I must say, Osero Camp blew me away! Dileep and Remya - Partners of the Osero - were extremely courteous, delightful and great hosts to me all through. I was in for a surprise with all south-indian food, delicacies and not to mention my birthday celebrations! Couldn’t have asked for more. Made my heart flutter 😊. My special thanks to Janardhan, my friend and well-wisher who took utmost care through out my entire trip with top notch planning! Here is one of the frames I'd dedicate to Janardhan!

One of the things I did this time was not to move around but to stay-put in a zone from where I could track the Legendary Lion Prides of Mara - The Salas Boys / Topi Pride, Rokero Pride and Fig Tree Pride. With heavy rains lashing out in the plains and for some reason, the migration was a dull affair (at least during the 10 days I was there); It rained heavily but in pockets, the sun shone sharp and was cruel. No surprises, it was nothing but Lion’s outing during my entire stay. Lions, Lions and more Lions. But Of-course, tracked Luluka and Faulu - Daughter of legendary Leopardess Lorain - besides watching Tano Bora Brothers (2 of the 5 ) hunt down a Topi and Wildebeest on two occasions while witnessed 3 other successful hunts by other Cheetahs. There is always “that” image that comes to my mind if I look back. An emotional one, that talks about a mother and cub! No other jeeps in the vicinity, it is only me and this mother with her cute little toys, one following while she is carrying the naughtiest in her jaws! Here is the most fearsome predator, holding her cub, cajoling and with utmost care, taking her up-hill!

The Prized moment of my trip!

Wet and crazily gold-lit mornings, far across, a column of Cape buffalos, the known bad and temperamental asses of the plains sauntering in a single column, surprisingly taking a restrained approach – perhaps aware of the fact that there were predators all around. Buffalos are known to attack and can be quite lethal. But I am sure we all agree, they can be good posers as well! One of the males had lost one of his horns and as I was watching him, wondered if he lost in a battle with his fellow contestants – Of-course, that also means, he lost his berth, hence named him as – Dethroned King

Dethroned King

The Tankers of the Plains

A Typical Scene with Cape Buffalos

As we sped up the hill that is a known spot for the Topi Pride, it may be 2 to 3 days since they had any kill. They were extremely active, their ears and eyes stretched wide - scanning their surroundings while the adolescent and cubs played around without a care in the world. The first day, I spotted all 4 Salas Boys over a buffalo kill but none of them were together. One of them was sleeping while the other turned its face off, wandering down-hill. The other 2 continued to feast. A huge personal disappointment for me was to miss having all 4 Males in a single frame. Alas a box stayed unticked.

The Legend - One of the Salas Boys!

When I gaze across vast lands of Mara, I get a feeling of being a part of its history. 4 Musketeers, Black Rock Pride, Bahati - The Veteran Leopard, Kabusu - The queen of Double Cross, Lorain - The beautiful Leopardess, Tano Bora —5 Cheetah coalition - Legends have come and gone - Every season and year, there is a dynasty that get usurped while a new legend is born. There are some who continue to rule the plains of mara for years holding their ground and territory, fighting through every single day - the heroes who have carved out a name for themselves and their pride. I look back as I am writing these lines - watching these legends year after year - History of Mara being written and re-written - it gives me a huge feeling of belongingness, a sense of pride, to be a part of the legendary script that goes on forever and ever.

The Legendary Bahati - Close to her retirement - An Extreme close up shot

For some reason (unknown) this year’s migration has been off-color. Lot of gossip around why the wildebeest herd have not been getting through Mara crossing, the grass shoots that have come up within Tanzania or the grass that got burnt on either sides or may be the heavy off-seasonal rains - you can never know the real reason for they are the best judges before the leap of faith by their leader. I did witness a few jumps on twice however in thin and weak numbers. I did get lucky to catch upon two crocodiles chancing upon a wild beast, but it was sheer heroic effort, grit and determination that made her survive the brutal attack. She was caught in the neck on one side while her legs were held by another crocodile - I almost thought the game was over for her, however to my surprise, she fought tooth and nail, with all her might, shook her head and legs not before giving a mild kick to one of the reptiles before she sped to safety. In life we all get caught in a whirlpool of problems and painful situations. The more we give into it, the more we get eaten. The more we fight and showcase determination, we survive - against all odds!

The Prey and Predator - Mara Crossing!

Mornings were brutally cold, my jeep speeding through the waterlogged roads and small streams, early morning sun coming out in all glory with golden rays spread across the Savannah - it has always been magical and a pure delight. I always look for the Walking towers of Africa - Giraffes - A perfect subject to make some fine images and memories with the rising sun. They seldom disappoint. I had got news about a Leopard but didn’t want to miss the morning date with these giants. After capturing rising sun with them, we sped across to the eastern side of the plains to check on the Leopard we heard few moments back.

A Perfect Morning - Up in the clouds!

There she was! Faulu - She is the daughter of legendary leopardess called Lorraine who was killed by Lions few months back. Incidentally, in 2019, I had great time with both Lorraine and Faulu (who was 8 to 9 months old cub). She was playful, ran all around, showing all the antics one could imagine. Always a mama’s doll and she was doted upon! When Lorain was no more, all of us were worried if Faulu would survive. When I saw her, my guide disclosed that this leopard was Lorain’s daughter it was such a great feeling - feeling of getting back - getting back into time – Oh boy! She had grown, showing off her confidence and yet being playful. I couldn’t express how happy I was - this is what happens when legends and their tribe are followed - One becomes part of their life - their family tree. Unknowingly I realized I had become part of their life. This is how my story goes - being part of Mara, being part of the kingdom, being part of the world that I long to keep watching. Yes, Faulu - An adorable girl - Her eyes shining like a star, her inexperience was visible, but she has come of age! I am sure she would be missing her mother but now she is capable enough to defend herself - As I saw her vanishing into the bushes of Double Cross territory - it gave a sense of relief - I do hope she rules this terrain forever! and until I visit her next, she thrives through the day-to-day survival challenges

Faulu - The Wonder-kid!

In 2019, I had a great time watching Tano Bora males. Coalition of 5 Males - They ruled the plains of Mara - growing in confidence. Hunting had become easy. They were not challenged. I spent a few evenings with them back then. Fast forwarding to this year, 3 males are gone and now, there are only 2 left. These two brothers are so closely knitted - I am sure deep inside, they know, their time is up with age catching up - They seemed to be tiring up fast. Even though they are hunting quick and eyeing large prey such as Topi and wildebeest, they seem to have lost a step or two. Life goes on in the wild as well as in general. With every passing day, we are slowly getting into time. Watching them both, cuddling, nuzzling, and just playing around - the bond between them, or do they get a feeling about their survival or what will they go through if one of them goes missing? At times it is so abstract. As I watched them groom one another, it made me shudder to think how it would be if one of them is no longer there? How will the last one in line cope up with the emptiness? It is always a vacuum I go through when I think of the past and how it is now - Time and tide waits for none. Cut to the chase, we tracked these brothers for 3 days, made some memorable images, waited for hours together for them to hunt down - I do hope when I am back in Mara in 2023, I still have chance to spend time with these running machines.

Tano Bora - The Legendary Coalition - 2 of the 5 brothers

Tano Bora - A successful hunt!

Causing a commotion!

Whether it is migration or not, game is on all through day and night in the endless plains. It is the game between Predator and the prey. Predators get their life while Prey loose theirs. After the big ones have their fill, Jackals or Hyenas or the vultures clean up the dead. But the remains of the dead have a lot to say! Orphaned with their remains, their spirits tell a different story. The spirits that are unseen - the spirits that are blind, dumb and numb. Each one of them had a part in the history of these plains. Each of them fought for their survival, they fought for their herd or clan or family. They would have stood tall to defend while shielding the young ones. Time in these plains run with these spirits. It runs with these souls that are long gone. We got a call that Rokero Pride had made a kill, so had to take the shortest route from Topi Pride territory. The drive was so beautiful with thick vegetation all around, puddles of water from previous night’s rain, the sound of the tyres sloshing past these water holes even as my heart beat a thousand times thinking if I’d get the best of the frames or if I’d get to spend time with these majestic cats. While we zoomed past, I saw something stared at me - something that took my attention - those two eyes that caught my attention was trying to communicate — I asked Ben to stop for a moment – they were the remains of a Cape buffalo. The entire setting was quite eerie. With scattered clouds floating over, the emptiness in those eyes, life that was taken away, life that was meant to live, was it a sacrifice or was it a hard-fought battle or may-be it was surrounded - in the end, no one heard the story nor seen nor felt. When I stared, those two eyes kept staring back at me. Right into me, right through me. So many untold stories, forgotten tales, hard-fought death and just silence. The remains have no words to share. It is the silence of the dead. The moment I made this frame, I wanted to name this image as “Silence of the Dead”.

Silence Of The Dead

With rains lashing through the evenings, the setting sun ensured to play hide and seek. The imaginations and visuals I had in mind were long gone but it still offered lot many opportunities to me. When I am in the land of legends, there are just a few things to complain about. When lights are low, clouds are heavy, mind thinks differently - uniqueness or how to be creative. It challenged me once again. Besides my tryst with big cats, I had loads of time I could spend with other subjects. While Impalas are quite common, their fights aren’t. I was lucky enough to snatch a few frames. Another incredible moment was a Black Backed Jackal family (with Pups); It is quite rare of them to showcase themselves. Or a Chanting Goshawk with a kill (Lizard); In fact for the first time, I happened to see a mother Giraffe nursing her little one! I must say, I looked around only to see Mother Nature blessing her mortal ones. These were straight lifts for me, from the documentaries I watched a zillion times - The Animal Kingdom.

A Dream come true!

A dream come true -
Since my childhood days, I have been watching the eternal foes of the plains on Television. The Lion and Cape buffalo! Arch rivals. In the last 15 years or so during my wildlife trips, unfortunately, I never witnessed a live battle. Their fights, kills, gorging one another to defend their family, feed their family. But this time, I was lucky. Watching a live battle was one of the best experiences of my life. That fateful day, as usual, after having a sumptuous lunch, my typical routine was to go up the hill, me and my guide take our afternoon siesta for 45 min and then resume our game drive. We took a decision to go towards Topi Pride (We had been following Rokero Pride that morning). It was cold - the air was moist - Black clouds hurriedly moved on. Upon reaching the downhill, we saw the Topi Pride Male and his entire gang of 28 lions huddle around a bush. Nearby there were 2 Bulls (Cape buffalo) in the waterhole. Besides our jeep, there was one more.

It was literally freezing. We decided to go for a quick inspection only to find out that one of the Matriarch - named Winter - had died. She had a huge hole in her hind legs. Apparently, one of the buffalos had gorged her (all these happened when I was taking my nap). After looking around a bit, we saw two Cape buffalo near-by but in a waterhole. There was a lot of unrest. One could feel tension in the air. In deep anguish, the Pride Male roared few times and snarled at his family. The entire pride surrounded Winter - as though it was their ritual to pay respects to her - they stood for a minute or two before breaking away towards the buffalos. The next 48 hours were nothing but a battle. Until 645pm - the two buffalos worked together to defend the Lion Pride (Total 28 Lions); Every time, Lions surrounded, one of the bulls came out of the waterhole to defend with attitude and determination.

Finally, one of the bulls squandered and moved on leaving his partner all alone to fight it out. Incidentally, time was up, and we left for the night. I kept on wondering - did the Lions get the kill? Or did the buffalo managed to escape from the clutches of certain death? I didn’t sleep that night. 5am Sharp, we left our camp - I was hoping the action would continue. By the time we reached the spot, it was as-is. The buffalo was still in the waterhole and lions had surrounded. Seems like the battle had continued through the night without an outcome. The sun was sharp, and both parties were confident to go for the kill. Every time the buffalo stepped out to walk few meters outside, the inexperienced cubs harped on to the buffalo only to see it get back into the waterhole. This continued. Even the male and the experienced females couldn’t do much - There were close to 12 to 15 Cubs that literally spoilt the scene. Neither they gave enough time for the buffalo to step out nor they showed patience. It hung in mid-air. I didn’t move an inch from morning through evening. On one occasion, the bull walked through the creek for few meters when the Topi Pride Male saw a window of opportunity to pounce but alas, the timing was bad. Hurriedly the bull jumped into the waterhole. Lions do not like to get wet and the Bull took that as an advantage for 2 whole days! To me, it was a battle of titans - 28 Lions Vs. 1 Cape Buffalo. If I would carry a point or two from this epic battle - Mental Strength, Determination, Positive Attitude and Never Give Up thoughts - stood out. Can’t imagine how excruciating it was, lasting for 48 hours with neither of them budging. The match swung both-ways, but it was completely spoilt out by the cubs. Sadly, it was my last day at Mara. At 6pm, I told Ben - guess I remain unlucky to witness the outcome of this battle. I almost cried knowing the fact, I may not see such an event ever again. Staring at the waterhole, I took a heavy breath and with a shaken voice, I said, Well, I am calling it a day and trip. Let us head back now. May be to cover up my tears, it started to rain. On one side I was deeply disappointed about the fact I couldn’t get to see the final battle but on the other side I appreciated what I got to see. It was the final night of my stay.

Battle between the Titans!

And still the Cape Buffalo held his fort - Until I departed.

Next morning when me and Ben were having Coffee, he reluctantly told me - Magal - Lions made the kill last night. I didn’t smile - I didn’t laugh. I just bent down my head for a minute. He said, Next time! We got into the jeep heading towards Keekrok Airstrip. All the events unfolded in front of my eyes; it was heavy. I was behaving like a school kid who does not want to go to school. I didn’t want to leave Mara. I wanted to drive up-hill, stop the jeep under an acacia tree, with gentle breeze blowing, wanted to sip a hot cup of coffee and may be lay down. Feeling as though the entire plains are mine. It is mine. I belong here. Mara Plains call for me. Ben nudged to let me know that it was time for me to leave - After hugging him tight, thanking him - I made my way into the flight – for my journey back home.

Year after year, I make these trips, but my hunger never seems to have satisfied. From the window of my seat, I looked down - even as my flight soared high, those roads that we used to drive, those water holes that we crossed, the tricky Talek River we crossed, the long roads became small, the entire plains could fit in my airplane window as my flight kissed the damp clouds. I let go a heavy breath as we landed in Wilson Airport and from there on, my mechanical self-became active or hyper-active. My emotional self said, it is okay - Until next time!